I'll ask again, is this driver side front or rear? It matters.

And which switch did you replace?

 

I installed a new motor assembly. Both the old one and the new one works when I supply 12 Volots directly to the motors.

 

I have been assuming "driver's side windows" means the side window for the driver. If not, then my first question stands. You are aware of the window lock button on the driver's front door? That little button forward of the other buttons, has a red stripe on it as an indicator. When the switch is in lock mode the rear window switches are disabled.

 

Yes I am talking about the drivers side window. Mine has a indicator lamp. This is working. The light comes on and off. This is true for the original switch and both of the new switches I have. When I try to put the window up or down I hear a relay but nothing happens. There is no voltage comeing out of the switch.

 

There is no relay! Look at the wiring diagrams.

Well, there is the RAP relay as noted on the diagram, but that should affect all of the windows.

 

It sure does sound like a relay ! It makes a sound !!

 

Leroy!
Lets get your window working. So you got a 2010 HHR. I assume we are talking about the front left window. You replaced the motor, but you tested the old motor and it works. How did you test it? You replaced the switch with a used switch? Did you look at the drawing that DonBrew posted? Do you understand the drawing? When you pop the driver window switch out, you need to check voltages.
You should read 12volts between the Blk wire and the Brown wire when you press the Down button
You should read 12volts between the Blk wire and the Drk Blu wire when you press the Up button

This is just a process, this by no means proves that your switch is functional. I see lots of switches that can pass a voltage but can not pass current. But lets just make sure you are getting these voltages here before we get too deep. If you had the pigtail that plugs into a driver door switch, this is idea to check continuity thru the switches. I would always ask permission before cutting pigtails off at junkyards, most do not care at all.

With limited knowledge about your car, I am betting on either a bad switch (had one myself) or like Don Brew said a bad wire, specifically inside that corrugated rubber tube where it jumps from the door to the body. Keep us posted with your findings and we will keep feeding you info until we get this resolved.

 

I am not home this week so I can not look at the HHR. The driver side will not move. When I move the switch there is some kind of klicking sound. As if there is a relay ! I checked out the old regulator and the new one by suppling 12 VDC direct to the plug. Both will move. Reverse the wires and the motors reverse. I can not tell what wire supplies voltage to the switch. When I get home I will check out the wiring that goes though the door. WHAT COLOR WIRE IS THE SUPPLY ? DKGRN Pin H ?

 

Yup. I would print out the drawing so you got something to refernece as you are troubleshooting.

 

Well I returned home and starting working on the non working window switch. Here is what I have found ! There is no current going to the window motor. When I unplug the connector to the motor and check it with a Meter I have 9.0- 11. volts. When I check it with a test light the light will not come on.When I check it with the test light and the meter thre is no voltage.
This is with the new window switch 20945129 That I got from NEOBSTORE on the internet. I also have another new switch and it will not work either.
I also checked the ground and installed a jumper directly from the black wire on the switch to the groung. ( Bolt on the door.) The window motor can work when I apply volage directly to the conector of the motor. From what I concluded the switch ( Both of them) will not pass power to run the motor.

Have I missed something?