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-   -   Driver side window not working (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/driver-side-window-not-working-61020/)

Greybeard999 11-22-2018 04:04 PM

It seems you are checking for voltage from the switch to the motor... Do you have voltage going from the harness into the switch?

Leroy Cook 11-22-2018 04:40 PM

Yes I am checking at the conector that plugs into the motor.. I can not get a test light to light. But if I check the conector when it is un pluged with a meter I get 9 Volts. It is as if the switch will not pass the voltage. And I do have 12 Volts on the yellow wire at the switch.

Leroy Cook 05-16-2019 07:22 PM

Drivers side electric window
 
My Drivers side electric window will not move yp or down. I have a new motor and switch. All othwer windows work. I here a clicking oming from the switch. There is no voltage going to the motor.

Is there a circut sowing the teminals on the switch?

Is there a 'lock out saftey I am overlooking?'

donbrew 05-16-2019 07:57 PM

Assuming you have a 2006: The lock out only applies to the rear windows.
Nothing between the switch and the motor but wires and the connectors in the conduit.

Leroy Cook 05-16-2019 07:58 PM

No it is a 2010 HHR!

donbrew 05-16-2019 09:16 PM

If it is only the driver window that the master switch does not control it must be wires.

On the master module brown and dark blue go to the motor, depends on position of switch which is + and -.
the yellow is the acc power (on the RetainedAccessoryPower relay). Also goes to the front passenger switch.
Dark Green is power from the windows fuse, it goes to each door switch.

RJ_RS_SS_350 05-16-2019 10:56 PM

These new posts have been moved to OP's original thread about this.

Maybe this time he will specify if the problem is with the front or the rear window.

I'm out.

donbrew 05-17-2019 07:50 AM

Post #14 #23 seems to say this is only the driver window.
The only way I can figure you are measuring 9 volts is if you are checking at the diode.
Any clicking is coming from the motor trying.

The yellow wire turns the power off after a couple of minutes of turning the key off. So it indicates nothing except the key must be on to check the voltages.
Yes there is a "circut sowing the teminals on the switch" on the first page of this thread. The numbers for the pins and the colors are noted.

Have you considered the regulator may be binding?

Leroy Cook 05-17-2019 08:21 PM

Driver side window 2010 HHR
 

Originally Posted by donbrew

Originally Posted by Leroy Cook
Maybwe the switch is not working as it should! I have two and they both arwe acting the same I have power to the small yellow wire. The dark green wire only has power when the switch is plugged in.I did run a jumper from the battery and The brown and blue are to ground. This was checked wqith a test light.
I am putting the door back together !
Maybe I have to bad switches?? The window motor will go up and down when 12 VDC is supplied to the connector .

The switch determines the polarity of Green and Brown. When the switch is in neutral they are both not connected.
The yellow wire is Retained Accessory Power, it turns the power off 2 minutes after the key is off.

See the diagram on page #1 of the thread.

I ran the window to the up position by suppling 12 VDC directly to the connector. It will also go down by Appling 12 VDC in in reverse. All of the widows work except the driver’s side.

There is no voltage coming out of the switch. I also checked the black wire to ground. And I can not find the wiring circurt!


donbrew 05-17-2019 09:04 PM

To reverse a DC motor you flip the polarity.

Here is the important part of the diagram again (if only the driver's window is the problem). The wire colors are noted and the terminal numbers are noted.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9586d617dc.png


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