DTC P0506 powertrain idle control system RPM lower than expected
#1
DTC P0506 powertrain idle control system RPM lower than expected
greetings, in the past few weeks while cruising around town the car will randomly stall and lose power. no matter if i plant the throttle to the floor the car will just cruise as i let off the throttle. no DTC light but the P0506 comes up as pending. i notice that if i use my torque app and clear the DTC (once i am off the side of the road of course) the car will bounce back to life as if it was resuscitated and the RPMs will spring back to normal around 800-820 whereas before when it stalled idle dropped below that. i do not think its a boost leak as my boost gauge reads -18 to -20inHg and i hit hit boost fine when flooring it. i cant recall if this started when i poured a few ounces of seafoam to a half tank of e47 or not, but wonder if that may had caused something at all? i'm open for suggestions and help. thanks everyone who reads this.
#2
Most likely a dirty throttle body, could be caused by oil getting sucked down the pvc hose from the valve cover
P0506 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: A vacuum leak An air restriction in the intake air path or exhuast A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body Internal engine problem
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0506
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
P0506 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: A vacuum leak An air restriction in the intake air path or exhuast A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body Internal engine problem
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0506
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
#4
VERY different for the SS crowd. You'll have to remove your coldside pipe to access the TB.
You'll have to remove the bumper, intercooler, and you'll have to remove the 2 mounting brackets that hold the radiator in. Once you've done that, move the radiator out. Now....you should finally be able to get the coldside pipe out and see the TB.
You'll have to remove the bumper, intercooler, and you'll have to remove the 2 mounting brackets that hold the radiator in. Once you've done that, move the radiator out. Now....you should finally be able to get the coldside pipe out and see the TB.
#10
Ok, youtube was no help.
The clamp on the throttle body inlet is not only very hard to get to, the first time I tried to get the charge pipe off, it was pretty much welded to the inlet. Before you battle that, with enough socket extensions, you should be able to remove the bolts on the bottom of the throttle body. This will remove the throttle body inlet from the throttle body with the charge pipe still connected to the inlet.
Then remove the electrical connector from the throttle body, and then you should be able to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold.
You may not even have to remove the lower end of the charge pipe. If you find that you do, to access the clamp at the intercooler outlet, remove the passenger side splash guards. There is an electrical connector on the lower TMAP sensor, and a vacuum line right next to it, remove both of those. .
The clamp on the throttle body inlet is not only very hard to get to, the first time I tried to get the charge pipe off, it was pretty much welded to the inlet. Before you battle that, with enough socket extensions, you should be able to remove the bolts on the bottom of the throttle body. This will remove the throttle body inlet from the throttle body with the charge pipe still connected to the inlet.
Then remove the electrical connector from the throttle body, and then you should be able to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold.
You may not even have to remove the lower end of the charge pipe. If you find that you do, to access the clamp at the intercooler outlet, remove the passenger side splash guards. There is an electrical connector on the lower TMAP sensor, and a vacuum line right next to it, remove both of those. .