Engine Revs at the touch of the pedal
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-02-2022
Posts: 6
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Engine Revs at the touch of the pedal
My 2011 HHR suddenly acted up today (12/2/2022) On the drive home.. towards the end of my drive home i was going in a 40 MPH zone and all of a sudden the engine started to rev as if I was pushing the gas pedal all the way down... But My foot was barely pressing the gas. I slowed down.. checked again.. after 35MPH is reached the car starts to sound different than before and pressing the gas lightly revs the engine...
Along with that issue.. when i took my first turn at a light while this revving issue was ongoing. the car jerked at the turn, and the check engine light lit up. I took another turn and the car jerked a little again... Switching back and forth from Reverse to Drive in a 3-point- turn to park at home would also jerk the car.
After parking, I turned they key into off position.. waited a little while.. then put it back n and turned the car on. it started fine.. but the check engine light was still on.. i'm going to a nearby O'Reilly to get a free engine light check, however I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone else had this problem or knows perhaps whats wrong? Is this a Quick fix? or one that might be costly and need a visit to the workshop if the problem is known..?
Along with that issue.. when i took my first turn at a light while this revving issue was ongoing. the car jerked at the turn, and the check engine light lit up. I took another turn and the car jerked a little again... Switching back and forth from Reverse to Drive in a 3-point- turn to park at home would also jerk the car.
After parking, I turned they key into off position.. waited a little while.. then put it back n and turned the car on. it started fine.. but the check engine light was still on.. i'm going to a nearby O'Reilly to get a free engine light check, however I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone else had this problem or knows perhaps whats wrong? Is this a Quick fix? or one that might be costly and need a visit to the workshop if the problem is known..?
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
Hi Tara, 
to the forums!
There's no sense in speculating what the issue(s) could be. Get the code(s), and post them up here. While you're at O'Reilly, have them perform a free battery load test, and a free charging system test. Get specific numbers from them for these test results. So many have told the customer that everything is fine, when in reality the battery was bad.
to the forums! There's no sense in speculating what the issue(s) could be. Get the code(s), and post them up here. While you're at O'Reilly, have them perform a free battery load test, and a free charging system test. Get specific numbers from them for these test results. So many have told the customer that everything is fine, when in reality the battery was bad.
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-02-2022
Posts: 6
From: Kalamazoo, MI
I know a few weeks prior to this incident I had an issue with the anti-theft system when i locked my keys in the car.. the battery ended up needing a jump start and anyone I've gone to in regards to taking the battery out and charging it for me (including the O'Reilly im headed to in the morning) have told me they don't have the time or tools to remove the battery.. as.. it has a 'fail-safe' of sorts. the Anti-theft is connected to the battery and if it gets removed it could trigger the anti-theft system.
Looking into my car manual it said i needed an REK to turn off the anti-theft alarm (i mention alarm as there may be a difference between the alarm, and when the car locks the key in ignition and drains the battery dead till it jumpstarts) and unfortunately.. I was not given one of these when my parents transferred the car over in my name. When looking it up. REK referrs to being something like a Key Fob for unlocking the car from a distance. However i could be wrong.
I did entertain the thought that an REK could be a Key Fob.. looking it up it looked as if they could be programmed to your car. however im not sure if all these how-to's ive looked up correlate to switching from one to another.. even if the key fob you originally had is missing.
Looking into my car manual it said i needed an REK to turn off the anti-theft alarm (i mention alarm as there may be a difference between the alarm, and when the car locks the key in ignition and drains the battery dead till it jumpstarts) and unfortunately.. I was not given one of these when my parents transferred the car over in my name. When looking it up. REK referrs to being something like a Key Fob for unlocking the car from a distance. However i could be wrong.
I did entertain the thought that an REK could be a Key Fob.. looking it up it looked as if they could be programmed to your car. however im not sure if all these how-to's ive looked up correlate to switching from one to another.. even if the key fob you originally had is missing.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,532
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I know a few weeks prior to this incident I had an issue with the anti-theft system when i locked my keys in the car.. the battery ended up needing a jump start and anyone I've gone to in regards to taking the battery out and charging it for me (including the O'Reilly im headed to in the morning) have told me they don't have the time or tools to remove the battery.. as.. it has a 'fail-safe' of sorts. the Anti-theft is connected to the battery and if it gets removed it could trigger the anti-theft system.
Looking into my car manual it said i needed an REK to turn off the anti-theft alarm (i mention alarm as there may be a difference between the alarm, and when the car locks the key in ignition and drains the battery dead till it jumpstarts) and unfortunately.. I was not given one of these when my parents transferred the car over in my name. When looking it up. REK referrs to being something like a Key Fob for unlocking the car from a distance. However i could be wrong.
I did entertain the thought that an REK could be a Key Fob.. looking it up it looked as if they could be programmed to your car. however im not sure if all these how-to's ive looked up correlate to switching from one to another.. even if the key fob you originally had is missing.
Looking into my car manual it said i needed an REK to turn off the anti-theft alarm (i mention alarm as there may be a difference between the alarm, and when the car locks the key in ignition and drains the battery dead till it jumpstarts) and unfortunately.. I was not given one of these when my parents transferred the car over in my name. When looking it up. REK referrs to being something like a Key Fob for unlocking the car from a distance. However i could be wrong.
I did entertain the thought that an REK could be a Key Fob.. looking it up it looked as if they could be programmed to your car. however im not sure if all these how-to's ive looked up correlate to switching from one to another.. even if the key fob you originally had is missing.
BS!!!!!! Somebody is looking for a way to avoid work. Everything you think you read or were told is inaccurate.
A dead battery will set the anti-theft, key locked, light on dash.
Security does not drain the battery.
Nothing special needed to change battery, unless it is a 2008 then you need a 9 volt battery/memory minder.
I don't have any idea what manual you are looking at. To reset the security you just start the car with a good battery. No idea at all what REK might be, maybe you mean RemoteKeylessEntry (RKE), that is the fob. It will activate the anti-theft when you use it to lock the doors, not reset it. You can get a fob with programming module from a lot of places, Dorman is one of the suppliers.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,083
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Welcome to the site, it’s the battery 🪫 low on voltage. When I go for my free battery load test, I take out the panels in the back cargo area so the counter guy doesn’t have to!
please as asked just post the codes here, do not buy anything the counter guy is telling you is wrong, codes are very often misleading and misunderstood!
please as asked just post the codes here, do not buy anything the counter guy is telling you is wrong, codes are very often misleading and misunderstood!
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-02-2022
Posts: 6
From: Kalamazoo, MI
My 2011 HHR suddenly acted up today (12/2/2022) On the drive home.. towards the end of my drive home i was going in a 40 MPH zone and all of a sudden the engine started to rev as if I was pushing the gas pedal all the way down... But My foot was barely pressing the gas. I slowed down.. checked again.. after 35MPH is reached the car starts to sound different than before and pressing the gas lightly revs the engine...
Along with that issue.. when i took my first turn at a light while this revving issue was ongoing. the car jerked at the turn, and the check engine light lit up. I took another turn and the car jerked a little again... Switching back and forth from Reverse to Drive in a 3-point- turn to park at home would also jerk the car.
After parking, I turned they key into off position.. waited a little while.. then put it back n and turned the car on. it started fine.. but the check engine light was still on.. i'm going to a nearby O'Reilly to get a free engine light check, however I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone else had this problem or knows perhaps whats wrong? Is this a Quick fix? or one that might be costly and need a visit to the workshop if the problem is known..?
Along with that issue.. when i took my first turn at a light while this revving issue was ongoing. the car jerked at the turn, and the check engine light lit up. I took another turn and the car jerked a little again... Switching back and forth from Reverse to Drive in a 3-point- turn to park at home would also jerk the car.
After parking, I turned they key into off position.. waited a little while.. then put it back n and turned the car on. it started fine.. but the check engine light was still on.. i'm going to a nearby O'Reilly to get a free engine light check, however I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone else had this problem or knows perhaps whats wrong? Is this a Quick fix? or one that might be costly and need a visit to the workshop if the problem is known..?
Just got home, it doesn't seem to be great news. Here's the codes they got from checking the engine light:
P0700 - Transmission control module (it popped up twice)
P0757 - Shift Solenoid Valve 2 Performance Stuck On
The employee at O'Reilly told me I need to go to a Transmission Shop. And reccomended 2 for me. They don't open till Monday however. And one I called told me that they can look at it on Monday but any work needing to be done would likely need to be scheduled in a few weeks.
I'm going to try looking up these codes and see what it means and how bad a situation I'm in but any advice or explanation from others who know is also greatly appreciated
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,532
From: Fredericksburg,VA
P0700 just means there is another transmission code.
P0757 means you don't have third or fourth gear because either the 2-3 shift solenoid is bad or the wire to it is bad. OR, you need a new battery; did you get it tested?
Labor is a couple of hours, a new new solenoid is about $80.
P0757 means you don't have third or fourth gear because either the 2-3 shift solenoid is bad or the wire to it is bad. OR, you need a new battery; did you get it tested?
Labor is a couple of hours, a new new solenoid is about $80.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,083
From: Welland,Ont Canada
A weak battery will give you strange codes! Have the battery load tested! I’ve seen folks go to the transmission shop pay an arm and a leg and still have the low voltage issue and the new battery was the fix!
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-02-2022
Posts: 6
From: Kalamazoo, MI
I got the battery tested after it needed a jump start 3 weeks ago due to cold weather and my locking myself out the car on accident. I was told it needed a recharge. But I hadnt looked into getting a new battery unless it was a last ditch effort. When I went to an Uncle Ed's Oil shop They said they could take the battery out, but it might trigger the anti-theft and leave me stranded. They told me that my Regulator can somewhat charge the battery if i drive around nonstop for 20 or so minutes a couple times through the week.
But i haven't pursued it but- It looks like it may have a connection to the car's issues today. I'm seeing several people on this thread telling me its the battery. I'm considering looking into getting a new battery at a Advanced Auto store nearby. Even if im not- entirely certain what battery im getting or how to make sure what kind i should get.
But i haven't pursued it but- It looks like it may have a connection to the car's issues today. I'm seeing several people on this thread telling me its the battery. I'm considering looking into getting a new battery at a Advanced Auto store nearby. Even if im not- entirely certain what battery im getting or how to make sure what kind i should get.