False dtc lights came on only code is1682
09-01-2019, 08:23 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-01-2019
Location: Arvada Colorado
Posts: 4
False dtc lights came on only code is1682
Sorry this will be long
I have been having strange problems that only happen once or twice first time i had to turn my ac off and restart my car if i left it idling to long it would not go over 20 mph and i had a cel on for an hour or two then it was gone.
Then it happened again about a month later i knew how to fix it by letting the engine cool off and re starting it. Then about a month later wich was yesterday my power steering went out at low speeds and when i would push the break pedal past half way i got a abs light then a service traction light and a cel and a tc off light then i took my foot off the break and it was fine so i parked the car and it wouldn't restart it was just clicking so i got a jump from some stranger and took it to a advance store and they ran a test on my battery and alternator but my car died again. But when i got another jump i was conned in to buying a alternator so far today i am having no problems i had a friend scan for codes and p1682 came up what should i do now replace my ecm or any help with how to diag that to make sure it is bad i checked all my fuses and relays yesterday everything was fine as far as i could tell new to this mechanic thing any help would be appreciated. Also i have done almost no work to the car just got it.
I have been having strange problems that only happen once or twice first time i had to turn my ac off and restart my car if i left it idling to long it would not go over 20 mph and i had a cel on for an hour or two then it was gone.
Then it happened again about a month later i knew how to fix it by letting the engine cool off and re starting it. Then about a month later wich was yesterday my power steering went out at low speeds and when i would push the break pedal past half way i got a abs light then a service traction light and a cel and a tc off light then i took my foot off the break and it was fine so i parked the car and it wouldn't restart it was just clicking so i got a jump from some stranger and took it to a advance store and they ran a test on my battery and alternator but my car died again. But when i got another jump i was conned in to buying a alternator so far today i am having no problems i had a friend scan for codes and p1682 came up what should i do now replace my ecm or any help with how to diag that to make sure it is bad i checked all my fuses and relays yesterday everything was fine as far as i could tell new to this mechanic thing any help would be appreciated. Also i have done almost no work to the car just got it.
09-01-2019, 08:46 PM
#2
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 24,717
Why do you think P1682 is a false DTC? Did you GoOgle it and find out what it means?
It means there is a short in the ignition switch. Has the recall been done?
Likely cause is a bad Run/Crank relay. Yes, that could cause other problems.
It means there is a short in the ignition switch. Has the recall been done?
Likely cause is a bad Run/Crank relay. Yes, that could cause other problems.
09-02-2019, 08:38 AM
#4
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,558
09-03-2019, 03:40 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-01-2019
Location: Arvada Colorado
Posts: 4
As for the recall i was told all of those were taken care of when i bought the car. My keys lock in the ignition and i have to manually release them would that be an indication of the recall not being done properly or something else?
09-03-2019, 04:05 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-01-2019
Location: Arvada Colorado
Posts: 4
Yes I will look into that recall I am under the impression all the recalls have been done by the guy who sold it to me. I have not replaced the alternator as of yet. What I mean when I say I was conned into buying it he gave me one that was from Carquest and they don't use them anymore I guess so I can't return it because it's a different system or some nonsense, I found that out later at a different store, he claimed otherwise when he sold it to me, I don't think I can even get my core charge taken care of. And since I have not replaced my alternator yet i have not seen any issues that would indicate that was ever the problem, as i have been through this before with another car. And at the time I didn't know I had that DTC.. so far the no start issue has Happened One More Time tonight, but I left the car alone for over 8 hours the day before and it started up just fine so I'm hoping that means my alternator isnt bad and I don't have to replace it and can get my $200 back.
09-03-2019, 08:25 AM
#7
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 24,717
There is a very low possibility the ECM is bad, I don't know how you came to that. More likely the run/crank relay or fuse, maybe a connection. Fuses #41, Relay #51
Push all of the fuses and relays into their seats. Unplug and inspect all of the pins on the ECM harness. Make sure the battery is connected tightly.
Make sure the bolt holding the fuse box together are tight. You may have to take the under hood fuse box apart and put it back together.
The traction and ABS lights are most likely caused by the codes not bad brakes.
The key will lock because the battery is dead.
Stop relying on high school kids to diagnose your car problems. Take a breath and use punctuation and spaces.
link to check your recall status
Push all of the fuses and relays into their seats. Unplug and inspect all of the pins on the ECM harness. Make sure the battery is connected tightly.
Make sure the bolt holding the fuse box together are tight. You may have to take the under hood fuse box apart and put it back together.
The traction and ABS lights are most likely caused by the codes not bad brakes.
The key will lock because the battery is dead.
Stop relying on high school kids to diagnose your car problems. Take a breath and use punctuation and spaces.
link to check your recall status
09-03-2019, 02:55 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-07-2011
Location: SE Mich
Posts: 2,180
ECMs don't "start going bad". They good until someone submerges them in water or something, and they become bad. Bad guess...
A better guess is your battery. Check voltage, and if it's under 12.5V (sitting), you probably found your culprit, if it's over 3 years of age.
A better guess is your battery. Check voltage, and if it's under 12.5V (sitting), you probably found your culprit, if it's over 3 years of age.
09-23-2019, 07:17 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-01-2019
Location: Arvada Colorado
Posts: 4
There is a very low possibility the ECM is bad, I don't know how you came to that. More likely the run/crank relay or fuse, maybe a connection. Fuses #41, Relay #51
Push all of the fuses and relays into their seats. Unplug and inspect all of the pins on the ECM harness. Make sure the battery is connected tightly.
Make sure the bolt holding the fuse box together are tight. You may have to take the under hood fuse box apart and put it back together.
The traction and ABS lights are most likely caused by the codes not bad brakes.
The key will lock because the battery is dead.
Stop relying on high school kids to diagnose your car problems. Take a breath and use punctuation and spaces.
link to check your recall status
Push all of the fuses and relays into their seats. Unplug and inspect all of the pins on the ECM harness. Make sure the battery is connected tightly.
Make sure the bolt holding the fuse box together are tight. You may have to take the under hood fuse box apart and put it back together.
The traction and ABS lights are most likely caused by the codes not bad brakes.
The key will lock because the battery is dead.
Stop relying on high school kids to diagnose your car problems. Take a breath and use punctuation and spaces.
link to check your recall status