Front end clunky noise
New Member
Joined: 02-15-2013
Posts: 17
From: Kansas
Check swaybar bushings first!
Our 07 LT2 has developed the familiar clunking noise. We just turned 84,000 miles. Went to a suspension/transmission specialist yesterday and had it diagnosed as worn out front swaybar bushings. Repair is gonna run about $200.00, most of it being (naturally) the labor charge. The rest of the undercarriage looks great. The previous owner had some suspension work already done, so this repair had better be ALL it needs.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-20-2012
Posts: 292
From: Dallas, TX
If you want to do it yourself...
Our 07 LT2 has developed the familiar clunking noise. We just turned 84,000 miles. Went to a suspension/transmission specialist yesterday and had it diagnosed as worn out front swaybar bushings. Repair is gonna run about $200.00, most of it being (naturally) the labor charge. The rest of the undercarriage looks great. The previous owner had some suspension work already done, so this repair had better be ALL it needs.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...=sway+bushings
Member
Joined: 11-16-2009
Posts: 57
From: Illinois
I'm chiming in my $.02 here as I fought this problem for a few years from 30k until 110k miles. A Chevy mechanic had told me this is a common problem and they have to change parts until the noise goes away. Here's what we did in order:
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns
.
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns
.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-03-2011
Posts: 683
From: Western MD
I'm chiming in my $.02 here as I fought this problem for a few years from 30k until 110k miles. A Chevy mechanic had told me this is a common problem and they have to change parts until the noise goes away. Here's what we did in order:
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns.
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns
.Had the clunking noise on my 2008 2LT and started with the little things first, then was going to work up to struts. After purchasing less than $100 in parts (Moog end links and Energy Suspension greasable sway bar bushings) and $50 labor to my freelance mechanic, the clunking was gone. So, it doesn't necessarily have to be an expensive, hair extracting experience.
Platinum Member
Joined: 05-09-2006
Posts: 6,805
From: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
I'm chiming in my $.02 here as I fought this problem for a few years from 30k until 110k miles. A Chevy mechanic had told me this is a common problem and they have to change parts until the noise goes away. Here's what we did in order:
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns.
1. Replaced all 4 struts including mount hardware/bump stops and sway bar end links (or so I thought)....noise still existed
2. Replaced lower control arm vertical bushings....noise still existed
3. Replaced sway bar bushings that run under the car....noise still existed
4. While working on driver side with tire off, noticed the sway bar end link was still factory. Mechanic didn't replace it, just the passenger side. Visually it seemed ok, but upon further inspection when trying to remove it, the 17mm nuts attached to the threaded bolt were worn down to no chance of getting a wrench on them to remove. Was able to vice grip and remove the outside nut...took a long time. Slapped on a moog with grease zerks....noise GONE!!!
The sway bar end links were around $38/ea and can be done fairly easily by any DIYer. The only issue is the clearance to the bottom nut. Prepare for some 1/4" at a time turns
.Are you saying you replaced both front struts twice and the noise still existed. I would think that after a one time change of both struts, you would have an answer.
Also agree with the comment above this.
Edit: Oh, after rereading your comment I think you meant the front struts and the rear SHOCKS (for a total of 4....the rear are shocks NOT struts). But why change the rear components if the clunking was coming from the front (unless of course they were needing a change)?
Last edited by Snoopy; Feb 17, 2013 at 12:38 PM. Reason: additional comment.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-26-2007
Posts: 130
From: Schaumburg, IL
Those noises will NEVER go away. No amount of time, money or patience will pay off. My '07 , as much as I love it will be my last GM car. The front end has problems and weak brakes have sucked much of the enjoyment out of the car. It still looks brand new at least.
Member
Joined: 11-16-2009
Posts: 57
From: Illinois
Are you saying you replaced both front struts twice and the noise still existed. I would think that after a one time change of both struts, you would have an answer.
Also agree with the comment above this.
Edit: Oh, after rereading your comment I think you meant the front struts and the rear SHOCKS (for a total of 4....the rear are shocks NOT struts). But why change the rear components if the clunking was coming from the front (unless of course they were needing a change)?
Also agree with the comment above this.
Edit: Oh, after rereading your comment I think you meant the front struts and the rear SHOCKS (for a total of 4....the rear are shocks NOT struts). But why change the rear components if the clunking was coming from the front (unless of course they were needing a change)?
. No real reason for changing the rear shocks. Guess I just wanted to since the front struts were going to be new...I wasn't mad at the mechanic at all. He's always been a good guy/family friend and doesn't go overboard on labor. As long as I get the parts I want, he'll do it for near nothing. Hell, I had him drop a new engine in a Cavalier I had and he charged $150 to do it. He knew a guy who had a Cavi rear ended and got the motor for $350. Had around 65k miles. I don't think he'd be the type to overlook replacing both end links. I'm sure he felt the driver one was in good shape for some reason. Even though I found replacing it did the trick, I'm not mad. It was almost 3 years ago.
