Have a drip in front of drivers side rear tire. seems to only drip when car is running, then stops shortly after engine is shut off. I also noticed it takes a bit longer to start. My guess is fuel line is draining down.

How much pressure ins in the supply line? can I get by for a bit with replacing it with a reinforced fuel line and a couple of clamps? don't have the time to mes with it too much right now, doing the 13 hrs of work per day thing. Any guess on the size of the line? I shoved my phone under there and it looks like it is leaking where the bracket is bolted to the body, but it could be running down the line from elsewhere.

 

Here's the sticky in the how-to forum
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...follies-62310/

 

Fuel lines are 3/8 or 10 mm , just as easy the replace them as repair them the fuel pump pressure is 50 to 60 psi.

 

I wouldn't do a clamped tubing repair.

At those high pressures, having a line come off would dump your fuel fast, and the (hot) exhaust pipe is right there.

For a fast DIY fix you could do a flared patch using a flare tool, a piece of 3/8" steel line, and a couple of flare couplers.

Steve

 

Keep in mind I am laying in the street doing the repair...

 

Can you back the rear end up on a pair of wheel ramps to get more ground clearance?

Steve

 

A jack an a jack stand under the car is all I used, out in my driveway.

 

No ramps, and the street has a bit of a slope to it. I always use jack stands and a hefty floor jack.

 

Notice what is holding the vehicle up..right around the 1:00 mark....

 

Welcome to the HHR fuel line leak club. Membership is huge.

There is an open (long time) NHTSA case on this. They haven’t done anything because no one has died. Yet. Do everyone a favor and file a complaint. It’s really easy online. And if you pay someone to fix it, save your receipts. They might do something about this someday.

In most cases the leak is under one of the pieces of foil-back insulation installed where the lines get close to the exhaust system. They retain moisture, which is bad enough if you live someplace where they don’t use road salt.

Pretty sure the insulation is to prevent vapor lock. In the rust belt, the cure is worse than the disease.

There are kits for replacing both the fuel and vapor lines with plastic. No harm putting the insulation back on in that case. My guess is that for some cars it will suffice to start at the fuel tank and just stop somewhere mid-cabin.

Double-clamping a piece of hose will easily hold 60 psi and is an acceptable temporary fix in my opinion. The force trying to push the hose off will only be about 6 pounds. But using compression fittings would be better. The problem with trying to make one little patch is that there is more than one of these insulators, so if you start messing around with one leak, you risk breaking open the line someplace else.