I disconnected both tubes. but NOT the electric. I will do it again in the morning & I will disconnect everything. Thanks!

 

Re your question in post #9 , leaking injectors can cause fuel pressure loss, or the in tank regulator or the fuel pump it self and then the hoses lines and fittings

 

OK- I got up this morning & removed ALL 3 CONNECTIONS TO THE(under the hood EVAP). I still was NOT able to blow air thru it. I also wanted to remove it off the metal bracket that was is bolted to the block,but I couldn't find a clip or anything on it that would release it from the bracket.


Anyway: I connected it all back together & I start the car!

1st turn of the key and it starts LIKE NORMAL. I didn't have to wait for the fuel pump to charge the system or anything. I also waited about 30 minutes and went back out and it started again.

Go figure?

Because I have NO codes showing in my DIC and it seems to be working right- I will just continue to monitor the situation.

Thanks for all the help!

 

One of the connections may have been leaking.

The mount is a curios affair, you have to look at a new one to figure it out.

 

UPDATE: I replaced the fuel pump today & it seems like that was the problem. I will know for sure in the morning.

Getting the gas tank was NOT that bad. A 25mm socket and you have to disconnect the muffler at the first connection under the car. You also have to slip the rubber donuts off the muffler hanger to swing the muffler to the side. The connections are all module and they could only be plugged in one way. Jacking & supporting the car to the right height took some time.
All in all, it was not a hard job. And the dealer wants 660.00 to change it.

 

I watched a guy do the job in 20 minutes on a lift. The dealer price for the part is upwards of $400, IIRC.

 

CORRECTION: 15MM socket

 

YES ........ the car started right up this morning! No need to turn the key and let the fuel pump prime the system. The fuel pump was still good, because the car would run fine once it was started.

I think it was the fuel pressure regulator that was bad, because the system would NOT stay pressurized. Because the fuel pump & regulator are an all-in-one part, it is best replace them both.

I think this is a important repair if you have and use your REMOTE START feature. because if it is NOT fixed the car will NOT start & it will drain your battery.

Now I am waiting on my newly ordered key fob's, to be able to remote start my car again.

 

Did you notice a check valve on the old fuel pump? That would more likely be the cause. A pressure regulator does it's function when the pump in running.

 

I found this quote in the service manual:
If the check valve fails, the system has to build up pressure to the point where it will start. When working properly, the check valve holds the system at or near the regulated pressure while the engine is off. The regulator does nothing when the engine is off.

If your regulator was bad the car would run badly once it started if it would even start. If you car cranked slow then stared and ran okay, the check valve would be the culprit.