sands.autolit

I recently purchased a 2006 HHR 2LT, automatic (2.4L). While in stop & go city traffic, the car started jerking, running rough like it was going to die. I thought it had gone into "limp mode" or something. There seemed to be no engine power to get back up to normal speeds.
The Traction Control light ("TC" with a slash through it) came on AND in the opposite lower dash corner - the Theft Deterrent light also came on!
After driving a few blocks so I could park the car, I let it idle in "Park," then turned the ignition off.
After one minute I restarted the engine and everything was fine! No dash light either. And it has run fine these last two days.
What could have caused this?
The car wasn't overheating, but it was a hot 96 degrees day.

Oldblue

Low voltage at the battery, loose ground wires, dirty engine oil, an ABS hub has loose wires.
Could be a number of things.
Get the battery load tested, have the OBD II system read for any pending codes.

sands.autolit

Okay, thank you! I will purchase an OBD2 reader, possibly in the $40 to $50 range. I've never used one, but it should be able to give me any codes, right?
You mentioned "pending codes." Would those be any recorded problems like the one that happened in my explanation, above - even without a "check engine light?"

Oldblue

Mine does but some don’t.

donbrew

Has the ignition recall done? https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/
You most likely have an electrical problem.

sands.autolit

I've had this same crazy problem now, 4 times. This morning it was doing it at start-up. The other times I was driving in stop & go traffic.
So I left the HHR at home and took the other car. This afternoon, same thing - when I start the engine, all the gauges and warning lights are going crazy.
I bought an OBDII reader, but now I'm getting communication errors and it won't read anything. In the past, the OBDII was able to show a "P2544" error and a "U0073" error.
I've tightened those long bolts, holding the two halves of the fuse box together. But they don't want to stop turning, even though they feel pretty tight already.
. . that was a couple weeks ago and the car hadn't acted-up since then, so I thought I fixed the problem. I guess not, now with this morning's reoccurrence.
It ran fine when I parked it last night.
Have I over-tightened the bolts?
The fuse box positive battery terminal is tight. The car battery in the back compartment is all tight, and it's a new HD battery. Although 2 weeks ago I left the ignition "on" after I rolled up the windows,
and forgot about it(!) for at least 2 hours. The running lights were on all that time. When I tried to restart the engine, it made a fast clicking sound. Then it started up on the 2nd try. And no problems since. That may not have anything to do with this 4th-time problem mentioned above.
ANY SUGGESTIONS before I have the car towed in to my mechanic again, when he replaced the battery and the alternator (over-charging - he said)?
I can attempt to drive it there too, like I did the 3rd time, but after all sorts of tests then, he found nothing wrong. The 2nd trip there was the battery & alternator R&R!
Thanks,
Steve

whopper

All your posts regarding this problem have been moved from 2 old threads to it's own. Lets keep your discussion in this one thread regarding the electrical problems encountered.

those responding or adding to this thread, please note that some of the posts were from July - and some questions were still unanswered.

Oldblue

donbrew

The TSB, that your mechanic should have access to, says to take the fuse box apart and inspect all of the connector pins straighten as necessary; reassemble with dielectric grease.

Do a GoOgle search for "hhr dashboard crazy" and one of the top links is this one that shows how to do it:

sands.autolit

To answer an older question:
Yes, the ignition switch was replaced in April, 2014, before i owned the car.
And, sorry, I lost track of this original thread.