Hard start when cold, no codes.HELP!!
Definitely the battery. The way they proved my problem was the battery before even rolling it into the shop was the guy cycled the car on and off somewhat rapidly. Start, run for 5 seconds, stop. Star, run, stop, and so on. With each start the engine had more and more trouble turning over. BATTERY
It's a 2009 HHR 2.4 . It got towed because it was giving me a hard time starting and rather than pump the pedal and force it, I wanted the techs to hear and see what I was talking about. But they said when it got there
It started right up for them. They can't find any leaks. No codes. And once you get it started it runs fine. But after you them it off and it sits for a few hours, it's really hard to start and is harder every time so whatever the problem is, it's getting worse.
It started right up for them. They can't find any leaks. No codes. And once you get it started it runs fine. But after you them it off and it sits for a few hours, it's really hard to start and is harder every time so whatever the problem is, it's getting worse.
The only thing pumping the pedal will do is reset the oil life monitor, if you do it right on the right car.
3 choices: the battery is not strong enough to pump the gas or the rail is not staying primed or the battery is not strong enough to let the ECM control the injectors.
Just thought of another; the battery is not strong enough to give a good spark.
I have absolutely NO idea how pumping the pedal would have ANY effect on starting the car. It is fuel injected! The pedal controls the amount of AIR. "Choking" is done by regulating the injectors. No accelerator pump, like a carburetor.
The only thing pumping the pedal will do is reset the oil life monitor, if you do it right on the right car.
3 choices: the battery is not strong enough to pump the gas or the rail is not staying primed or the battery is not strong enough to let the ECM control the injectors.
Just thought of another; the battery is not strong enough to give a good spark.
The only thing pumping the pedal will do is reset the oil life monitor, if you do it right on the right car.
3 choices: the battery is not strong enough to pump the gas or the rail is not staying primed or the battery is not strong enough to let the ECM control the injectors.
Just thought of another; the battery is not strong enough to give a good spark.
A brand new battery did not help.
I'm well aware that my car is fuel injected. However, pumping the gas pedal is the only way it will start after it has sat for more than a couple of hours.
Please explain what pumping the accelerator pedal could have to do with it, I'm open to ideas.
The only thing could be the delay while the key is on running the pump.
You could try just turning the key to "run" for several seconds before turning it to start.
You never answered about the "dealer". I think whoever it is isn't interested enough to fix it.
The kid at the auto parts store can test the electrical system for free, that includes the starter, alternator and battery. That will leave the fuel pump/check valve, those can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge, which can be loaned from the autoparts store or bought for $30.
The only thing could be the delay while the key is on running the pump.
You could try just turning the key to "run" for several seconds before turning it to start.
You never answered about the "dealer". I think whoever it is isn't interested enough to fix it.
The kid at the auto parts store can test the electrical system for free, that includes the starter, alternator and battery. That will leave the fuel pump/check valve, those can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge, which can be loaned from the autoparts store or bought for $30.
Please explain what pumping the accelerator pedal could have to do with it, I'm open to ideas.
The only thing could be the delay while the key is on running the pump.
You could try just turning the key to "run" for several seconds before turning it to start.
You never answered about the "dealer". I think whoever it is isn't interested enough to fix it.
The kid at the auto parts store can test the electrical system for free, that includes the starter, alternator and battery. That will leave the fuel pump/check valve, those can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge, which can be loaned from the autoparts store or bought for $30.
The only thing could be the delay while the key is on running the pump.
You could try just turning the key to "run" for several seconds before turning it to start.
You never answered about the "dealer". I think whoever it is isn't interested enough to fix it.
The kid at the auto parts store can test the electrical system for free, that includes the starter, alternator and battery. That will leave the fuel pump/check valve, those can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge, which can be loaned from the autoparts store or bought for $30.
I didn't say dealer. I said dealership, as in the car dealership where I purchased my car.
All of those things were checked, hence, the techs being stumped.
You don't seem so much interested in offering helpful information as perhaps tossing out argumentative quips. That being the case, perhaps you should move on. Thank you.
That's what they're thinking. Just having trouble finding the cause because everything checks out. Gonna start fresh on Monday. Thank you.


