Mark Black

Oh and they checked the plugs wires and harnesses. And everything was fine with that.

whopper

Since p0014 seems to be pretty steady - swap out that exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve. You said both of them were previously changed when you had the p0010 which is for the Intake one - so either put the old one for the exhaust back in, or get a new one (and get a GENUINE GM one).

Were the ones recently installed GENUINE GM ones (GM pn: 12655421) or an after market one?

Oldblue

The P0014 keeps coming up because of incorrect camshaft timing , which could be the Exhaust Solenoid or the chain stretched.
Now normally a stretched timing chain will cause a P0016 code , so yeah it’s not likely the chain.
Dirty oil can cause the Solenoid to malfunction, a loose wire in the connection.
Don’t worry about the phone / computer thing, we’re here to help you get it fixed.

firemangeorge

Post #2, whopper ask about the mileage on this car.
Maybe the OP could answer this. Would give us a little better idea about what we're dealing with as far as what to look at.

whopper

He said he had changed the "fluids" so I assume he means the oil and filter, so I kinda suspect that the new exhaust camshaft solenoid he installed might be non-GM or is just defective. The no-cost way of diagnosing that, is to just put the original one back in and give it a run.

And if the old one was discarded, go get a new GM one.

case in point regarding defective non-GM ones: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...e-41295/page3/

Mark Black

Ok so bought the car for 1000 .

Has 116662 on it. It's standard. 2.4 when I bought it it needed struts. And when I picked it up no one was open past 5 so brought to Monroe.

They put new quick struts setups in. Both sides. And changed the oil.

And scanned the car where the 2 actuators got changed intake and exhaust. They cleared it .

Drove fine check engine light cane on again was rear selnoid. Changed that.( magnetic sensor 1 of 2).

Then brought back had them reset again. Now mind u the first time both those actuators in and ex were changed. I was told they were bad so they got dealer (parts.. ) and changed them. So I changed the one now it' the p0014 code.

But it will drive fine until light comes on them it will almost stall out when coming to stop but won't. Then in 5th kinda jerks like it can' tell if it should push out more gas or not almost like a clogged injector jerking if I let off gas but not all the time. Its almost like it feels like arching a wire 2 sonething

. Idk if anyone knows what i mean. But they check wire harness and conectors.

Now would a bad tensioner cause slack so it would set it off? Cause it's not tight?

Ok now the 2 actuators the 2nd place I brought it 2 hook up a comp and drive it and said they could see when and where they were working and reading and said that all that checked out and was fine. They were working and reading right.

Mark Black

donbrew

OK, slow down. Descriptions of codes are stupid, they don't mean anything. We need the code numbers. You probably replaced a cam sensor ( magnetic sensor 1 of 2) because the description said something about sensor mismatch, what that means is the timing chain is loose/broken/jumped.

I think you are saying the chain is visibly loose? Don't run it until that is fixed.

The fact that it was $1000 leads me to think the seller knew the chain was bad. Maybe they replaced the chain, but did not activate the tensioner.

Mark Black

I'm saying only way for me to tell since it keeps coming up is take top of chain case off and look idk? Wish I knew more about cars I know enough but guess just not enough lol. Figured for 1000 even if I put 1600 into it it still be a good car at less than value. Same code p0014

donbrew

Take the valve cover off, that is just a matter of unbolting. And look at the chain, if you can move it with a finger it is too loose.

You should look for an independent shop, like a guy that works out of his garage or a small shop. Probably less than $1000.