aradmahogany

Sounds like you messed something up, unfortunately. Sounds like something went ary pretty early in your process, as a gallon of brake fluid is an EXTREME amount of fluid to use during a flush. I think when I did mine it took about 8oz or so...... there are 128 ounces in a gallon, so yeah.

One SIMPLE solution could be that your rear drum shoes are WAY too loose. Check that too.

chaosdsm

I used a full 32oz bottle for initial flush because of how nasty the old fluid was. the other 96 ounces was used in multiple bleeding's trying to get the brakes to not be mushy.

IMPORTANT THINGS TO NOTE:
1> No signs of fluid leaks of any kind.
2> With key out of ignition, or when key is in accessory on position, brake pedal comes to complete stop after first 1 - 2 inches of travel.
3> Parking brake goes 3 clicks, 4th click a bit more difficult, but can get it so I don't think the shoes are too loose.
4> She still stops just fine???
5> ONLY WHEN I HAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING DO I HAVE MUSHY BRAKES


When attempting to look at it logically, these facts tend to indicate to me that there's probably not a problem with the Master Cylinder unless there's an electronic valve inside that only opens when ignition is running. #2 also tends to indicate that I have all the air out of the lines... #5 coupled with #2 basically points to the Brake Power Booster. Unless logic has failed me along the lines, by me possibly missing something???

Blue_SS not sure if ABS activated during pad break-in, couldn't tell. I'll definitely be picking up one of those HF vacuum pumps to try one more round of bleeding before towing it to Pep Boys...

RJ_RS_SS_350

With the bleeder valve open, there should be no resistance.

whopper

Don't waste your time getting that pump. Just take it to your Pep Boys. Hopefully they can check, diagnose and fix it.

It sounds like you are in way over your head on this for several reasons:
- used an unbelievable amount of fluid when bleeding the brakes, by bleeding them over and over without any success
- you don't know if the ABS was activated during pad breakin??? - if it was activated you would know or should know, if you don't know.................. it's best not to work on it yourself!!
Brakes are just too important to keep messing with.

chaosdsm

Sorry I've been gone a little while, had an unrelated spike in blood pressure that peaked at 245 over 165 while I was checking in at the hospital ER

I'm 99.99% sure the ABS activated during break-in, but she's just so smooth when braking now that I cannot feel ABS working anymore. I even got her up to around 60 to 65MPH & slammed on the brakes (faux panic stop), it was a very short stop at 166 feet with no skid marks, dead straight, & was extremely smooth aside from the initial forward thrust from the seat at onset of braking. These Power Stop brakes are much better than what was on her before!!!!

Unfortunately, the BP issue means extra doctor bills & testing to find out what caused such a high spike, which will be keeping the $$$ kinda thin right now

My apologies for initially trying to avoid the “too long did not read” crowd by keeping things short & to the point with my original posts... but at this point, I'm not going to bother re-writing all the details that were glanced over or skipped. So instead just some pics :) May get into the details later

First up is the SECOND QUART of brake fluid that was bled through the system. Still pretty dark at this point, but definitely clearer than the first quart.


Next is the passenger side brake pads, notice how worn the outside pad is, only about 0.012 inches material remaining (less than 1/64") on that one pad, while the other 3 pads all have between 0.12 & 0.14 inches material remaining.



Before & after wire brushing of the wheel hubs:


New Rotor installed:


Also stripped & painted the calipers using Ceramic based high temp primer & paint of course, but should have let them sit overnight after painting...

:

whopper

What is the post about? Are you asking for further help or advice?

About all I can add is, if the ABS was working, you would have felt it, and HEARD it - so I have to assume that the ABS is NOT working.
The difference in the wear of the brake pads: nothing to worry about, the difference is pretty minimal, and can be caused by dirty calipers, guide pins and anything else the edge of the pads contact.

and if you used another QUART of brake fluid......... you really need to take it to a shop - using a quart (now what, 1.5 GALLONS?) is way out of line - you are doing something seriously wrong - you need to read the posts in this thread.

I'm out.

donbrew

Nothing electronic in the MC.
The booster runs off engine vacuum.
Normally when the booster is bad the brakes are very hard.
Have you looked at the rear brakes? Sounding to me they may be way out of adjustment.
Test booster: engine off; pump pedal up with foot pressure on pedal start engine; pedal should go down.
ABS only activates if wheels are sensed at different speeds. i.e.: 1 or 2 lock up.
ABS causes the pedal to pulsate and makes a very odd loud noise, like metal on metal grinding, sort of.
ESC uses the ABS system to apply brakes to attempt to straighten the trajectory of the car. It can make the car turn 90 degrees.
Usually it is the inner pads that wear faster. You photo indicates a "hanging" caliper, usually a dirty/worn/bent/dry pin. Sometimes a bad piston seal. The square cut O-ring seal is actually what pulls the pads back.

Oldblue

donbrew

I guess incredibly bad hoses could do it. They could be acting like balloons.

Cat Man HHR

If they're that bad you would think one is ready to pop.