How dire is replacing the O2 sensor? (please read)
#1
How dire is replacing the O2 sensor? (please read)
So I live in NY and I'm going to visit my family in Maryland for a couple weeks, leaving this Thursday. I just got a CEL and the codes were P0030 and P0135. After quick googling, I'm calling it the O2 sensor needs replacing because the heat circuit isn't reading right. I also read the symptoms, the main one being that it impacts mileage.
It's Saturday afternoon, so of course it was near impossible to get in anywhere today for a fix. I did make it into one shop though, and he was having a hell of a time finding the part. I'm going to come back Monday and see if he can track one down this week.
But here's my question. Other than less than stellar mileage on my trip down to Maryland, is there any reason to worry if I can't get this done before I leave?
It's Saturday afternoon, so of course it was near impossible to get in anywhere today for a fix. I did make it into one shop though, and he was having a hell of a time finding the part. I'm going to come back Monday and see if he can track one down this week.
But here's my question. Other than less than stellar mileage on my trip down to Maryland, is there any reason to worry if I can't get this done before I leave?
#2
Should be ok,
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
#3
Should be ok,
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
Yeah all the research I did says that the wires in the O2 sensor aren't reading the heat or something like that. Likely, I'll be able to get it fixed this week... But just in case, I wanted to know. I do have history with my old mechanic back home, so it'll get fixed one way or another. I just want to make sure it didn't need to be done NOW.
#4
Why would there be a problem finding the part? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...oxygen+sensors
I would also check the wires and fuses.
I would also check the wires and fuses.
#5
Check the pricing at RockAuto, don’t forget that discount code
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132
#6
Should be ok,
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
The P0030, I’d check electrical connections
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
The P0135 , I’d replace the front O2 sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
Just need a 7/8 open end wrench, the special sockets don’t fit in there , I have two , both are to long and hit the floor boards
I agree somewhat and here is why.
When the O2 sensor isn't reading properly or the heater circuit has issues then the ECU will force a run in open loop for a longer duration. Depending on what exactly the issue is with the sensor it may never switch to closed loop. Why does that matter? The fuel/timing map is then static and isn't impacted by your a/f readings. It is set up to where this would always be a normal or rich condition as to not damage the engine in the event of a component failure. Most of the time you can get away with it but under some atmospheric conditions this will cause carbon buildup on the spark plugs that will eventually foul them, leaving you stranded. To add, the rich condition combined with the inevitable misfire could lead to catalyst damage. <--That is worst case scenario. I personally would not risk a long trip with a failed/failing O2 sensor. It truly is a crapshoot.
If your local parts stores/shops cannot get one. Go to Rock Auto, select the appropriate shipping timeline and order one. It will make it before you leave. Here is a 5% off code that you enter in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" blank. 8184680663887648.
I think you have a few options to make your trip a success.
1: Rent a car and have yours fixed when you return. (Lowest risk, Highest cost)
2: Bring the tools to pull the plugs and a small brush to clean the electrode off in the event that it does carbon foul or begin to misfire. (Medium risk, could result in catalyst damage, Costs could vary)
3: Order the sensor and fix it before you leave. (Low risk, Low cost)
Good luck sir!
Side note.. If this were your secondary (downstream) O2 sensor, you could drive without worry for as long as you'd like. Sadly it is Bank 1 Sensor 1, your primary (upstream) O2 sensor.
#7
I agree somewhat and here is why.
When the O2 sensor isn't reading properly or the heater circuit has issues then the ECU will force a run in open loop for a longer duration. Depending on what exactly the issue is with the sensor it may never switch to closed loop. Why does that matter? The fuel/timing map is then static and isn't impacted by your a/f readings. It is set up to where this would always be a normal or rich condition as to not damage the engine in the event of a component failure. Most of the time you can get away with it but under some atmospheric conditions this will cause carbon buildup on the spark plugs that will eventually foul them, leaving you stranded. To add, the rich condition combined with the inevitable misfire could lead to catalyst damage. <--That is worst case scenario. I personally would not risk a long trip with a failed/failing O2 sensor. It truly is a crapshoot.
If your local parts stores/shops cannot get one. Go to Rock Auto, select the appropriate shipping timeline and order one. It will make it before you leave. Here is a 5% off code that you enter in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" blank. 8184680663887648.
I think you have a few options to make your trip a success.
1: Rent a car and have yours fixed when you return. (Lowest risk, Highest cost)
2: Bring the tools to pull the plugs and a small brush to clean the electrode off in the event that it does carbon foul or begin to misfire. (Medium risk, could result in catalyst damage, Costs could vary)
3: Order the sensor and fix it before you leave. (Low risk, Low cost)
Good luck sir!
Side note.. If this were your secondary (downstream) O2 sensor, you could drive without worry for as long as you'd like. Sadly it is Bank 1 Sensor 1, your primary (upstream) O2 sensor.
When the O2 sensor isn't reading properly or the heater circuit has issues then the ECU will force a run in open loop for a longer duration. Depending on what exactly the issue is with the sensor it may never switch to closed loop. Why does that matter? The fuel/timing map is then static and isn't impacted by your a/f readings. It is set up to where this would always be a normal or rich condition as to not damage the engine in the event of a component failure. Most of the time you can get away with it but under some atmospheric conditions this will cause carbon buildup on the spark plugs that will eventually foul them, leaving you stranded. To add, the rich condition combined with the inevitable misfire could lead to catalyst damage. <--That is worst case scenario. I personally would not risk a long trip with a failed/failing O2 sensor. It truly is a crapshoot.
If your local parts stores/shops cannot get one. Go to Rock Auto, select the appropriate shipping timeline and order one. It will make it before you leave. Here is a 5% off code that you enter in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" blank. 8184680663887648.
I think you have a few options to make your trip a success.
1: Rent a car and have yours fixed when you return. (Lowest risk, Highest cost)
2: Bring the tools to pull the plugs and a small brush to clean the electrode off in the event that it does carbon foul or begin to misfire. (Medium risk, could result in catalyst damage, Costs could vary)
3: Order the sensor and fix it before you leave. (Low risk, Low cost)
Good luck sir!
Side note.. If this were your secondary (downstream) O2 sensor, you could drive without worry for as long as you'd like. Sadly it is Bank 1 Sensor 1, your primary (upstream) O2 sensor.
#8
Welcome to the land of markup my friend. Its a sick and dirty world.
What is your year and engine. I will tell you which I would order. I know there are a lot of choices.
#9