firemangeorge

Because syclone isn't the owner with the broken door.

SeanDavey is the owner/member with the panel door problem.

SeanDavey

I pressed the button on the dash yesterday and I can hear that the motor is still working. Just that it doesn't seem to engage the lock. As I recall now, it's always been this way. That was why I started using the interior handle to open the door. So I wonder if there might be something I can do to get that button release to work a little harder. Maybe having someone lean on the door from the outside (to release pressure against the lock mechanism while the button is pressed. Any ideas welcome...

Cat Man HHR

OK.
Just reread what he wrote.
Looking at it differently and see he's giving his help on the subject.

syclone

By no means would I suggest damaging your vehicle if there were any alternatives - hard for me to believe anybody would misinterpret that - yes the inside handles break but usually only from rough use - the latches with the integral motors do fail on occasion - if the lock motor is working then one of the handles should work so we have to assume the latch is the culprit - either the latch itself or the lock motor. So by whatever means the tech feels is best I think the latch needs a hands on.Again- I think I could get it apart but it depends on your skillset. I won’t offer anymore suggestions unless asked. I don’t have all the answers but I am nearly 70 years old and I have been a successful tech for 50 years. Anybody can armchair quarterback and anybody can find fault with others opinions. Anything I might say is only a sincere effort to help.

whopper

Cutting a hole in the doors outer panel? Right!!!!

donbrew

On the rear cargo access panels the latch is the lock. The relays are behind the tail light access panel passenger side. Power comes from the Liftgate fuse under hood fuse box.
But, what is keeping you from removing the trim panel on the other side and inspecting the works, then figuring a way in?

donbrew

Look at the wiring diagram and figure out where you could apply 12V. (Hint: the battery is within a foot of the relay that controls the pos. )

The "lock" is a failure to open the latch (des not provide ground). What you might interpret as a "lock circuit" is the door ajar switch.

SeanDavey

I already mentioned that the lock is responding electronically to the button, which means the power is getting there. Just that the lock is not responding enough to open up...

syclone

Good points - This is what I meant about armchair quarterbacking - I had assumed that power to the actuator had been verified - prior to heroics to open the door the simple checks should be made - the gang plug at the “B” pillar comes apart easily - might be a good idea as suggested by others to look at the wiring schematic to ID the correct circuit and apply 12v directly at the door harness. Everything to gain , nothing to lose - I doubt the issue is here if the other locks work but it is possible

firemangeorge

Honestly. If you are sure it's that door's mechanism trying to work, then it's time for some shade tree 101.
One person pushing the button, the other person banging, kicking, pushing/pulling on the door. If you can get it open then great. But you'll still need to pull the inner panel off and inspect and lube everything.

(and since you weren't able to open it with the inside door handle, you may find a broken handle flange or cable.)