Installing aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry
 

Hi guys! It's me again. (This guy: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...program-59029/ )

So after hearing multiple times "It just won't program", I am taking matters into my own hands and installing an aftermarket RKE.

Now, I've got the wiring of the unit figured out. I need to find out what wires I need to hook into to simulate a press of the switch on the driver side door. From the wiring diagram I *think* I need to connect the lock to the white coming out of the door wiring harness and the unlock to the black/white.

Anyone have an idea?
Here's the wiring diagram for the door.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f807da0e0.gif

Did you buy a RKE kit, there are many out there; Bulldog comes to mind. They come with direction.
When I installed one all I had to do was splice into one wire at the BCM and insert a resistor in another wire.

This site has directions posted on it.
Remote Car Starter & Keyless Entry Systems ? BulldogSecurity.com
Direct link to PDF
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manua...0ManualLOW.pdf

It is not as simple as pretending to push the button.

On Ebay: Universal Car Remote Central Kit Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers E1 | eBay

And it turned out, after I got the dealership to admit they were just stupid and they programmed the RCDLR, it worked along side.

It's a 1.5K resistor in the wire on pin#7 on the BCM X1 connector Wht/blk.
Here is more from Buldog:
Attachment 45417

Doesn't seem right. My diagram in Haynes is a little different, but one thing that is the same, is that blk/wht is always grounded. So if you want that wire grounded, then you could hook to the blk/wht.

It seems more likely that you want the wires that go to the latches(or maybe the relays?), not the switches. But I have to admit, this system is difficult to understand.

I found this product to replace OEM unit

https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/produ...ts/BWD/C02007/

Yes, I've already bought the unit. I don't really want to get into the fuse panel because I keep hearing that on the HHR no RKE will work that way without a $70 security bypass module. So, like a lot of the folks who bought and successfully installed the unit on Amazon, I'm planning to just connect to the switch to simulate a press of the lock/unlock button of the driver side power lock switch.

Here's the unit I got:

It only looks complicated; it is only 1 wire: G to 1500Ohms is unlock and over 1500 ohm is lock on the ground wire.

Once again we are getting confused between distribution diagrams and wiring schematics.

I think 2006 is actually a wht wire. Note the resistor in the switch.

Attachment 45418

So you splice the lock wire from your control unit directly into the white wire and the unlock from the control unit to a 1.5K resistor to the same point.

No need to go into the door panel, the wires are right there at the BCM connector X1. Lots of room to hide the control unit.

IIRC in this bundle

Attachment 45419

The diagram I posted is from Autozone so may or may not be correct.

So just that one wire? That does seem simple. Now to find a constant 12v hot, a good ground and that wire! :-P

Not sure mine has a resistor. Might need to go with a different model...

BTW, a metric ton of thanks for all you folks' help!!

Dammit Jim, I'm a doctor, not an electronics engineer!!!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JiEwHutPb_...0001-320pi.jpg

The BCM is full of 12V, it is a fuse box!

You have been hearing from people who don't know anything! There is no reason to even think about the security system, unless your RKE kit includes one. And I'm not talking about doing anything to the BCM, just accessing the same wire at a convenient spot.

The instructions just suck? That's why I posted Bulldogs. I believe that all of the add-on units are made by the same factory, it is a generic circuit board.

The resistor does not usually come with the kit; when there were Radio Shacks on every corner you could buy them for 20/$1. Now, I guess you need to either find someone that does hobby stuff or pay shipping. The watt value doesn't matter in this application 1/4 watt at least. Ebay, Digi-Key or some other place.

Here is a nice pictorial install it's for a remote start, but you can see the wires.

I was incorrect C1 is the other connector, the horizontal one. I also called it X1.

2007 chevrolet hhr pictorial

Don, do you know if the changes made, for 2008 SS and 2009 all trim levels, would affect this install?

I don't think so, as far as I can tell it's the same pin on C! the color may be different. Sometimes the wire is white all the way to C! and sometimes it is blk/wht.

Some years both door switches are wht all the way. pin 7 is the driver door pin 6 is the pass door, so it really doesn't make a lot of difference.

I think I'll find out how hard a professional will laugh at me when I ask them how much to install it...

As one of those guys pointed out; all you are really doing is telling the car computer to do something, not bypassing the computer. The old style RKE was a completely separate system.

When you find out all you need is a $0.01 resistor, you slap the forehead :duh:. Remember they are not switches, they are sensors. You just have to lie to the computer.

Okay, run (solder) the unlock wire through a 1.5k resistor and splice it and the lock wire together with the white wire, right? Then as long as my power and grounds are connected... I should be good, right? What wattage resistor? Does that matter?

(Note: the pros in my area will only install Viper or Excalibur RKE systems not the no name brand like I have)

See post #12

Lol, missed that thank you!

So, this would work?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/25W-Power...stor/141415782

That would be overkill by a factor of 100. 1/4 watt not 25 watt.

Like 1k at 1/4 watt would be just fine, this value is most common in applications like you are about to do. :smile:

Oh I know it would be Overkill wattage wise... But I can get one locally and don't have to buy 100 that I'll never use... It would work, right?

Yes, of course I see your point.

Voltage doesn't matter as much as physical size. It just needs to fit in the space.

Basically the PCB is 2 relays that connects one wire or the other to ground. You are adding a new switch to the circuit.

Here is my first foray into Visio:

Attachment 45432

Does the PCB mean the RKE unit or...?

yes

Gotcha! Thanks again. Picking up the resistor today or tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it goes :-)

Installing today... wish me luck!! I found a hot wire, I just need to find the white wire in C1 (the horizontal connector below the fuse panel) and a good ground and I should be golden...

I'll post again soon :-)