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Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 828689)
It only looks complicated; it is only 1 wire: G to 1500Ohms is unlock and over 1500 ohm is lock on the ground wire.
Once again we are getting confused between distribution diagrams and wiring schematics. I think 2006 is actually a wht wire. Note the resistor in the switch. Attachment 45418 So you splice the lock wire from your control unit directly into the white wire and the unlock from the control unit to a 1.5K resistor to the same point. No need to go into the door panel, the wires are right there at the BCM connector X1. Lots of room to hide the control unit. IIRC in this bundle Attachment 45419 http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JiEwHutPb_...0001-320pi.jpg |
The BCM is full of 12V, it is a fuse box!
You have been hearing from people who don't know anything! There is no reason to even think about the security system, unless your RKE kit includes one. And I'm not talking about doing anything to the BCM, just accessing the same wire at a convenient spot. The instructions just suck? That's why I posted Bulldogs. I believe that all of the add-on units are made by the same factory, it is a generic circuit board. The resistor does not usually come with the kit; when there were Radio Shacks on every corner you could buy them for 20/$1. Now, I guess you need to either find someone that does hobby stuff or pay shipping. The watt value doesn't matter in this application 1/4 watt at least. Ebay, Digi-Key or some other place. |
Here is a nice pictorial install it's for a remote start, but you can see the wires.
I was incorrect C1 is the other connector, the horizontal one. I also called it X1. 2007 chevrolet hhr pictorial |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 828698)
Here is a nice pictorial install it's for a remote start, but you can see the wires.
I was incorrect C1 is the other connector, the horizontal one. I also called it X1. 2007 chevrolet hhr pictorial |
I don't think so, as far as I can tell it's the same pin on C! the color may be different. Sometimes the wire is white all the way to C! and sometimes it is blk/wht.
Some years both door switches are wht all the way. pin 7 is the driver door pin 6 is the pass door, so it really doesn't make a lot of difference. |
I think I'll find out how hard a professional will laugh at me when I ask them how much to install it...
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As one of those guys pointed out; all you are really doing is telling the car computer to do something, not bypassing the computer. The old style RKE was a completely separate system.
When you find out all you need is a $0.01 resistor, you slap the forehead :duh:. Remember they are not switches, they are sensors. You just have to lie to the computer. |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 828689)
It only looks complicated; it is only 1 wire: G to 1500Ohms is unlock and over 1500 ohm is lock on the ground wire.
Once again we are getting confused between distribution diagrams and wiring schematics. I think 2006 is actually a wht wire. Note the resistor in the switch. Attachment 45418 So you splice the lock wire from your control unit directly into the white wire and the unlock from the control unit to a 1.5K resistor to the same point. No need to go into the door panel, the wires are right there at the BCM connector X1. Lots of room to hide the control unit. IIRC in this bundle Attachment 45419 (Note: the pros in my area will only install Viper or Excalibur RKE systems not the no name brand like I have) |
Originally Posted by opensorce
(Post 828798)
Okay, run (solder) the unlock wire through a 1.5k resistor and splice it and the lock wire together with the white wire, right? Then as long as my power and grounds are connected... I should be good, right? What wattage resistor? Does that matter?
(Note: the pros in my area will only install Viper or Excalibur RKE systems not the no name brand like I have) |
Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
(Post 828799)
See post #12
So, this would work? https://www.walmart.com/ip/25W-Power...stor/141415782 |
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