If I lock doors from inside. Driver ( only ) door locks, then unlocks. Pass. Stays locked.
when using Remote, Lock / unlock normal.
I removed door lock switch ( back cover was missing?) Replaced with New GM. Same problem...
Remote wouldn't work. Replaced that battery.
HHR Battery Dead.
Then I found that KEY on Outside drivers door Would not work!!!!! Anyone want to help me find that Engineer?

Shimmied my door open, charged battery.( Key worked after that,?!)
With new switch, same. Can't leave HHR unlocked, Don't trust the remote... No way to get to battery hid in rear bumper..( that's another project, I'm going to FIX.
All fuses / Relays are good.
I do have a Power Probe. Any suggestions? Find that Dead battery no entry and battery placement engineer for probing ideas...
Actuator?
Battery is 1.5 years old. Test good. Dis-Charges pretty fast. ( I may just go get Another Battery.....)
This issue happens on full charge.
Thanks!
PS. Also just found out that when battery is Dead or removed, you cannot physically unlock doors!????
Anybody have a Rat Rod they want to Trade?

 

In one of the other threads you started, you speculated that the ignition may have been replaced. If someone did so using used parts, then the ignition key would not work in the door.


Where did you get this information from?

 

Year? New to you? Owner Manual link in my sig.
The theft deterrent activates when the battery dies; that locks the ignition and doors. When my battery died I was able to unlock the door with the key.
You don't trust the solution that works?
The computers will start having fits when they get less than 12 volts refuse to even try to boot at about 9.6 volts.
1.5 years in your car; how long sitting on a shelf? Age is no gauge of battery health. They are dead at about 12.3 volts. That is the most likely source of your problems.

 

2008 - LT ,
I've owned the HHR for 7 Years, Put over 80K + miles on it. No Issues like this.
it's Been Great!

Ignition may or may not have been changed when I bought it. My Concern back then was the Center mounting screw in bottom cover was missing... it Wobbled pretty bad/ Annoying.. I could find a Screw/ bolt to fit. So I removed it Untill I found one.
Ignition / Door Keyed alike ( little elderly Lady )/ GM did all work - Maintenance etc. it had 50k miles on it.
2008 LT.

My New issue now is.,... I'm going to go get another Battery. Can't open rear hatch... Battery charging.
I'll try a mini battery jumper for juice.as I Can't get to battery.
My Biggest FEAR is....Both neighbors on each side of me, one 4 years ago Dodge, and other 4 months ago Ford. Had the Wires eaten by Squirrel or rat...
Not sure if and haven't checked on HHR and SOY infused wiring....
Yes the battery is low and Hope BCM is Still Good etc...
Thanks

 

I read it somewhere on the Internet? Everything is true correct.....
Actually thought I read it on this site.. I just know mine would not unlock with key. And believe me it was Jiggled. As soon as I hooked mini battery boost. Key worked, EZ..
I'm thinking now maybe it's the BCM?
I'll do more research but pretty sure if I get one, it will have to taken to a Dealership to program. OR is this something I can buy giving my VIN?
Self install?
PS, Battery won't Charge.. too low..
Cannot open Rear hatch...???
When I hook any jumper, I hear Clicking, coming from it sounds like 3 places.? Old typewriter sound...
Thanks Again for all the Help...
Signed
Frustrated.
I sure don't like all these electronics, but then... don't miss Dual Point Distributers either!

 

I have owned 5 HHR's and still own 2. I had an issue like this. Maybe exactly the same, maybe not, but at least similar, with just one of them, my 1st one.

2008 LS, electric door locks quit working properly. It was gradual. It was as though they weren't getting enough power. Also, at times, as if they would actuate halfway and stick, and when the driver door did this, it was jammed and the door key wouldn't work. This could be remedied by actuating the the lock button manually to either the full up or down position.

Eventually it started to blow the fuse.

I had read on the forums here that a pinched wire could cause enough resistance that there would be insufficient power to properly actuate the door lock.

I had no time or patience to chase wires, so I pulled the fuse and lived with operating the locks with the key and by reaching for the mechanical buttons, and just lived with the inconvenience. Just like the old days, right? I had hoped to fix it before I sold the car, but never got around to it.

Throughout all this, the hatch lock behaved normally. It is on a different fuse, so I was able to use it as always, with the fob or the local button.

My 2010 and 2011 door locks seem to actuate with noticeably more "authority." I suspect more powerful actuators or some other solution was implemented to address a known problem.

 

Yes, soy insulation.
What has been done that could fry the BCM? They don't up and die with no help.
All of the wires that affect the doors are inside.
As I said before, when my 2008 and 2011 had a dead battery the doors did lock but I was able to use the key.
If you can get the hood open a 9 volt battery hooked to the fuse box with alligator clips is good enough to open the lift gate. Or,, a "battery saver" that plugs into the cig lighter. Or, you can open it from inside following the directions in your Owner Manual;.
A fuse in #11 under the hood will suppress the lift gate locking. I'm not sure if putting a fuse in that position will unlock the lift gate, but power is needed to unlatch it that is #10.

 

I had problems with the door lock on the drivers door, it wouldn't lock but would cause the others to lock, then unlock. I ended up shooting a bunch of WD-40 in there to free everything up and moved the lock pin up and down a bunch until it got easier to move. Been working fine ever since. Window started working quicker too so lube probably helped there too.

 

"Pulp Friction" He mentioned in on this Post also. As another did also. hen Battery was Dead Door locks did not Operate.

 

They don't operate electrically (with fob) the driver door WILL work with the key regardless of battery condition. The other doors will not respond to the lock/unlock all command from the key.
The key is a physical connection to the latch on the driver door. The latch communicates with the BCM to electrically operate the other locks. There is no electrical connection to the key cylinder.