Oldblue

So the pads wear was minimal, that indicates the pad slots were fine.
The wires were transposed from the original hub to the new hub after a test to see if new hub was the culprit.
And don't run the drive train whilst the car is up off the ground, I think that is what confused the system and tripped the ABS up!
So issue resolved , you have a spare master cylinder.
This is good info for those with ABS , which thankfully I don't have!
Cheers

donbrew

Thanks for the translation OB!

But, why not think "power booster" anywhere in the process? Every time I replace my brake pads the pedal seems spongy for several pumps. If it lasts longer I would be thinking bad caliper or bad booster, not master cylinder or ABS pump.

The ABS module has nuthin' to do with the firmness of the pedal, unless no brake fluid is present in the module. It doesn't do anything unless it is activated by the computer.

I am still confused.

Wheatgerm

Timken Bearing twice the price of most out there came that way, Made in Korea..

I figured if they bothered to have a black and a white wire on the hub stator assy there might be a reason for it but apparently all is working fine now and even though I will switch the pins in the connector anyway for GP they came transposed from Timken, both of them, I can shoot a photo if anyone needs to see it for themselves.

The brakes are fine now and the explanation ''Lucky'' offered seems to fit what took place.

Don Brew I'll clear things up in the next follow up post.. Again thanks for the help and suggestions.

Wheatgerm

1] Had noisy hub bearing, purchased 2 in case I needed a left and right.

2] Ran the car in gear with both wheels off the ground so I could listen to each side.

3] Noticed the left wheel was turning in the proper direction but the right side was turning in the opposite direction during the test.

4] Installed the new bearing hub assembly on the left side only, reassembled everything and put the car back on the ground and had a spongy pedal.

5] Upon starting the car the antilock light was lit but went out in a matter of seconds so I drove the car to see how it acted.

6] Pedal was not normal but the car stopped fine, panic stop and all, just seemed to have a pedal that would sink as often a bad master cylinder will but the brake light did not come on ever again, not the anti lock nor the brake light other than the bulb check upon starting.

7] Adjusted rear brakes, bled front calipers, no change, reinstalled the old bearing hub assy but just plugged in, not installed as a unit to check if it made a difference on the pedal problem and it didn't. I ordered and installed a new master cylinder and nothing changed, the problem remained..

8] Drove the car on a rainy day by chance, hit the gas a bit too hard and the wheel spun on the right side, kicked in the left as it felt from inside the car and it then spun too and after that the brakes were fine instantly. The wheel spin took place for a second or two but a distinct ''Clunk'' was heard when the left wheel was engaged or kicked in and spun as well.

9] It had to be something along the lines of Lucky's analysis and as unorganized as it was posted I wanted anyone to know the symptoms and learn from it, after I was able to fish for reasons it might have taken place initially.

Input from everyone was welcomed and on a standard ordinary brake problem would have solved most of what I described but the Man Made Problem I created by running the car off the ground and putting an anti lock anti skid control car through what I did to mine probably caused the problem from the start.

I hope it helps someone else down the line.. Next up is my desire to raise the low front end on that thing, while working on it I noticed the front plastic worn from scraping often, it is my wife's car so I don't drive it often but I can see why it happens with no fault to the driver, it is just too damn low. Any suggestions are welcome..

Lucky

The abs valve module can definitely cause a low brake pedal. I have came across three of them so far causing a low pedal.

It's not common but it happens.

Inside the vale module are accumulators that take the pedal pressure in and abs stop and with a pump can lower or increase brake pressure to keep the wheel from locking up but still apply ample pressure to stop the car.

If one of the valve that would be normally closed to an accumulator is stuck open or not sealing the brake fluid would have to fill the accumulator before brake pressure would apply the brakes. Giving you a low pedal.

In the diagram of a non abs stop if the dump valve did not seat properly the pressure would be lost to the accumulator until it's full.

Oldblue

Thanks Lucky, I thought this was the case caused by running the drive axles while suspended!

donbrew

unless no brake fluid is present in the module

Wheatgerm

It was due to running the car off the ground, both front wheels. The Hydraulic System was not opened nor even disturbed in the Hub Bearing replacement.

Bleeding was after the problem took place in effort to rectify the new problem. Installing a Master Cylinder was more of a "Rule Out'' repair than one truly suspected and it was Bench Bled as to not introduce any air into the system to create any further problems beyond the one I already had.

Apparently the transposed wires of the Timken Hub Bearing for ABS make no difference since all is fine as is but I will switch the wires upon receiving a Delphi Wire Pin tool ordered already so as not to do a hack job on the plastic connector with a tiny screw driver or like substitute for the job.

Thanks for all the suggestions and knowledge gained here. If the problem returns I'll post it on here again.

Wheatgerm

Don, I never lost ''Power Assist'' during the entire adventure therefore the power booster was never suspect. A hard pedal would have headed me in that direction though. "Lucky'' seemed to nail this one as things unfolded.

The leaking or open valve in the ABS system mimicked an internally bypassing master cylinder so given all that took place and all that ended as it did '' I " created the problem from day one.

Thanks for hanging in there and keeping with the posts..

My recall for the ignition switch appointment came in the mail yesterday, I'll take it in soon and run this problem by the Chevrolet Brake Man while there to try to gain any more information on this topic that might be of value in the future.

Wheatgerm

Today the car went in for the recall of the ignition switch and keys, while there I ran the incident details by the Service Manager and his answer was along the lines of your input Lucky.. He said the abs and traction systems were sent a scrambled message by the front wheels turning in different directions, tried to compensate for what was perceived to be a car spinning out of control in circles.. So much for running the car in the air in gear in the future, I'm back from behind the Wood Shed on this one and learned my lesson.

I hope anyone with anti lock brakes and traction control reads this before attempting to diagnose front wheel bearing noises or anything that would have them run the car off the ground for any reason.

All is well and remains so, thanks to all that took the time to suggest and help from the start.