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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
September 29, 2015 at 8:39 pm
I have an ’06 that I bought a year ago from my sister in law to help her out of a bind. She claims to never have had a problem and if something came up she was at the dealership to rectify it and her stack of paperwork confirms it. It has 125k, is a 2.4 and Lt trim. My wife uses it as her primary car. I’ve replaced the tires and an inside door handle….no biggy, they’re plastic, they break.
It seems that right after we registered the car in our name that we have been getting the recall notices about the ignition. My wife made the appointment and all is well. At least that's what we thought at the time. I don't know if it's related but now the fun begins.
A few weeks ago my wife said the dash lights are going haywire. I drove it, nothing. Later she says it’s happening more and more. The lights go crazy, AC and radio shuts off and it steers hard. Oh, and sometimes she can't remove the key, but can turn off the engine. This week she called from work “it’s dead. No start, no lights, nothing”. I figure since the ‘puter is shutting things down, it’s probably low voltage. Yes, the battery was shot – got a new battery (almost $200). Started the car. It ran for five minutes and shut down. Started again, die. Start again, die. Alternator? Another test with volt/ohm meter. I get no charging voltage back to battery so the ‘puter shuts down? Ok, new alterator ($125). What a horrible pain to get at, but the task is complete. I start the motor and watch the meter. Good juice even with AC on. I shift to reverse then into drive. Ok, no drop in voltage, sweet. No crazy light show on the dash. Man, I sooo rock. I shift back to park, it dies. Start it back up, die. Start, die. Start, die. The car is still sitting in my wife’s Employer’s parking lot where I did all the “repairs” in between rain showers. Why doesn’t it go bad when it’s near the garage where all the tools are? Now I’m stumped and will have to pay for a tow and shop rates for diag and labor. Can’t wait to hear what they want for parts. Being retired and budgeting has it’s drawbacks.
I haven’t even touched on the front end trouble we’re experiencing such as steering wheel wobble when braking hard. I inspected the brakes and it all appears in good shape (recent brake work performed according to sis in law’s receipts). I have replaced all four hub bearings and it still doing it.
October 14, 2015 at 9:01 pm
So far it has been learned that this 06 HHR, and very possibly many other models, have many grounding posts placed throughout the car’s unibody. Since the battery is in the rear under the spare tire, the negative post is no longer tied directly to the car's frame and engine block like the “old days”. My mechanic researched the wiring schematic for this car and we found that many different functions are bundled and grounded at various locations. GM has replacement bolts you can order because the originals tend to rust and/or oxidize over time. A bad ground will play havoc with an electrical system by not completing a circuit thus not allowing certain functions to operate correctly. And since many of the problems we’re experiencing are bundled to common ground locations it makes sense the we will find the problem. Right? Each location was painstakingly checked and cleaned. All serial connections, wires, modular plugs and relays were inspected and tested. Seriously, we have talked with GM dealers, Buick dealers and they have no idea what do to look for next.
BCM. Body Control Module.
Can it be tested? No, not really. We know that the commands are being transmitted but the actions aren’t being carried out.
My mechanic doesn’t have the expensive testing equipment that the dealers have that plug directly into the BCM but he knows someone that does. This process does NOT come cheap. The car is now in another shop and I’ve been contacted by the owner and he stated that he thinks we need to order a new BCM. You think? He says it’s getting commands but nothing is happening. Hell, I knew THAT much. I asked where he gets them and he answered “chevy”. His quote is just shy of $600 to acquire it, program it since it is specific to the car’s VIN, and install it. That doesn’t include the use of the “wonder machine” and his time thus far. Wow. Just wow.
"Please order the part and make the car whole, thank you very much" I mutter through clenched teeth all the while trying to sound cordial. However I doubt that it did.
More later, I hope it’s good.
October 22, 2015 at 11:31 pm
Got the call to inform me that the car is done and ready to be picked up. With a shaky hand I swipe my credit card and the gal at the counter handed me my key. I have almost $1000 into this damn car so far. My wife and I go outside and she starts the car. It’s running!! Finally, a step in the right direction. I have my wife push all the buttons, turn every knob, operate all the functions she can find. It’s still running. Ok, lets roll. I’ll follow you home.
This morning while my wife is driving to work the dash board lights went out and came back on and now the key fobs don’t work. Oh no, this feels very familiar.
With all this happening I still haven't had the opportunity to check under the car to see why the steering wheel shudders under hard braking.
Tune in again to the continuing saga. More to come.
For that shake when you brake check the bal joints and rear lower control arm bushings.
As for the electrical issues check the fuse box under the hood, they have been known to shake loose and need to be tightened back up, search fuse box for a detailed how to .
Nice looking car and wife likes it but today if I had a shot gun I would put it out of it's misery. This thing is full of gremlins. The electrical system went absolutely haywire over a year ago and the shop said "new bcm". $600 (plus) later at least it would start, run and stop. Some lights never worked right again along with door locks, key fobs and only one turn signal light wouldn't operate, yes I checked the bulb and wiring. The other day wife says "no a/c". Ok, compressor comes on, no blower. Fuses are good, replaced inline resistor, got voltage to blower -$90 blower motor...nope. Started it while testing new blower motor and the car quit. Restart the car and the rear wiper is on (?) turn off wiper the engine quit. Turn off the key turn on the key nothing. Three times, car starts...ok, turn on a/c no blower and engine quit. Dash lights are flashing. Turn off key, turn on key, nothing. Remove key I hear a click. Insert and turn key, engine starts. If I touch ANY button on the dash, the engine quits. I'm done. This is what it did last time they "replaced" the body control module. As far as I'm concerned this thing is a boat anchor. But the rear wiper works just fine.
But you never responded to the suggestions for repairs(possible separated underhood fuse block). Now, 2 years later, your second post. You don't seem to be asking for help, sounds more like you're just venting.
I would guess that the car was in a flood, but your sister didn't mention it. Just a guess, since we don't know if you ever checked the fuse block.
My apologies, yes I posted before and neglected to add this to the thread. Thank you for combining my rants.
As far as the continuing saga, the shuddering stopped with new front discs and pads. I included hub bearings all around.
To answer the q's; yes, I've been all over and under and through this machine with my mechanic and several hours on my own. Fuse box mounts, grounds, connectors, fuses, you name it. I know my way around low voltage DC circuits and testing equipment, but this one has me by the short hairs. As far as a flood car, I don't think so. I haven't seen any rust or corrosion in other components. Considering parting it out.
No reply at all from 2015! So how are we supposed to know who did what to your HHR.
My theory still stands ground wires, under hood fuse box halves, program the key fobs, load test the battery.
This could be something so simple but the shop you took it to is just guessing and charging you to fix nothing.
I’d suggest a call to your better business bureau.
Trust me, I've been through the electrical system; fuse box halves, fuses, continuity. In the last year I replaced the battery, alternator and starter.
I have two questions: Can I use a BCM from a like HHR and/or can a BCM be reset to factory? The auto electric shop says no to both. I have suspicions that the shop didn't actually replace the BCM. I wish I would have marked the original some how.
10-22-2015, 10:48 PM
