Stryker

I know I saw that part, but heck even if I looked at the end link threads I am not sure if I could tell if they were stripped or not, inside is covered with grease ya know :)

sleeper

You use a Q-tip, or similiar & wipe the area out. & take a look...

Since the zerk cuts threads, the likelyhood it is stripped is kinda remote.

I don't think we are communicating too well.. Perhaps another can jump in here..

HHorange

Zerk fittings come in common sizes.......... Your local auto parts store should have them in stock. First try a new fitting the same size. If that will not tighten up you might be able to go to a larger size.

solman98

I think he is saying check the zerk and it's it's damaged it's easy to replace the zerk. If it's not the zerk, the zerk won't need to be replaced.

Stryker

Yeah when I am working my weekend night shift and trying to make coherent thoughts at 4-5am in the morning reading comprehension is the first to go :)


I will check the zerks out and see if they are the problem.

Another question...if all the grease did leak out, is the link possibly damaged now since I had to drive it to and from work with no grease on the top mount? I probably put 60-70 miles on there after I had the problem.

sleeper

I seriously doubt "all the grease" leaked out..

1) you overfilled it

or:

2) if it was pre-greased & your grease was not compatable with what it came with, it can cause grease to mix & run out.. (don't scratch yer head, it happens)..

Stryker

Here is the link to the grease gun I bought...it came with a grease cartridge.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2082____


When I started pumping, the blackish gray grease that I guess comes with it ballooned out. Its on the driver side on the top so the fitting is facing away from you and its behind stuff so it makes it hard to see. But a good bit came out. After the power steering light came on and the clunk came back on the way down the road I pulled over near my work and looked through the wheels and I could see the gray grease pushed out even more and some of it had even splattered on the inside of the fender well but against the side closest to the firewall/front of the cabin, not like on top.


I went by the parts store and got some 1/4" replacement zerks and some locktite because the 1/4" looked to be about the same size as what I put on. But no one could tell me for definitely what the actual size should be. Like I said Moog's website doesn't have any information on the links that I can seem to find.

I will try taking it off tomorrow...putting the new zerk on with the link off and then applying the grease before I mount the end link. This way I can make sure everything is tight prior to putting it all back together.

Here's a crazy question though. I saw something on a jeep forum while trying to find out more about my problem, and they remove the sway bar link entirely to allow for more wheel travel.

Naturally I won't be off roading in this, but is it out of the question to consider removing the link and see if the noise really does go away before spending more time and money chasing this link issue? Naturally I will replace it, but for curiosity's sake. I mean it just adds some stability right? Shouldn't hurt to take it off completely would it?

Greybeard999

The car would handle really bad without the bar, but while you are feeling adventurous removing the bar completely will expose the sway bar bushings (rubber bushings where the bar attaches to the frame).... another possible source of noise. You may want to just replace those while you are there.

I haven't been under my HHR yet so all I've seen are line drawings, which aren't very good for relaying information, so I'm going on what I've done years ago with much older cars..... we used to pull the bar for wheel drop on drag cars.... corners became very scary due to body roll....... but nothing broke because of it. So I would imaging the same to be true here. Note: none of these older cars had struts, not sure how that would effect this issue.

dhw3971

I installed the Moog links on July 4 and I am very happy with the results. Steering and cornering are improved but I'll have to wait until October to see if the cold-weather "graunch" noise returns.

prod

That noise is most likely the stabilizer bar bushings, where the bar is clamped to the frame.