Motor and trans swap. Now no start.
Motor and trans swap. Now no start.
I know theres a lot of things I could have bumped while doing a motor swap and a trans swap but its very strange. I turn the key all the relays make their clicks fuel pump is on. I measured the voltage at the starter solenoid wire and it only goes up to .3 volts. No where near 12 volts. Cleaned all contacts with sand paper and or a wire brush. I wonder if I messed up a pin in the fuse panel when I put everything back together. and its throwing that "engine power reduced" message even though I hasn't even turned over. One other thing. the motor did run just fine. started on first turn of the key but I messed up the rear man seal and had to drop the trans. And while I did that I figured I'd buy a newer transmission for $300 with half the miles. So I know the motor is in great working order.
Sorry for the rambling. Just need some other thoughts.
Sorry for the rambling. Just need some other thoughts.
It's not what you want to hear probably, but in situations like this, go back to the beginning and retrace all the steps.
This happened to another member a few months back, and it was a loose ground, and he had all sorts of "fun" going back over things.
This happened to another member a few months back, and it was a loose ground, and he had all sorts of "fun" going back over things.
And since it worked fine before pulling the trans, run through everything done during and after the trans swap. Is there some sort of neutral/park safety switch connection that might be loose, preventing it from starting?
I would be looking at the shift selector switch on the trans. If it is not showing park or neutral the starter will not crank.
Did you reuse your old switch or did you use the one that came with the replacement trans.
Did you reuse your old switch or did you use the one that came with the replacement trans.
Hey everyone. Well this was an easy one. The actual fix itself took only a minute. Heres what happend and this may be something that helps others in the future.
The fuse block under the hood needed to be tightened down more. When i first put the fuse/relay box back in, as i was tightening i heard some funny sounds and didnt want to over tighten it and take a chance on bending a pin. I took it out and retightened it down but this time i ignored the popping noises (which was just the wire blocks pulling out of the tray) and bottomed the screws out nice and tight. CEL is gone and turned over on first twist of the key!!!
Thanks guys!
The fuse block under the hood needed to be tightened down more. When i first put the fuse/relay box back in, as i was tightening i heard some funny sounds and didnt want to over tighten it and take a chance on bending a pin. I took it out and retightened it down but this time i ignored the popping noises (which was just the wire blocks pulling out of the tray) and bottomed the screws out nice and tight. CEL is gone and turned over on first twist of the key!!!
Thanks guys!
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Apr 13, 2011 11:41 PM



