Need to repair codes so I can pass inspection
#62
now I understand. I cleaned up the old ones and they are working. But it only takes 20 minutes to do the injectors.
I just can't understand why the TC and ABS codes have stopped. What does new injectors have to do with them? And the added benefit... my remote start works again! (That function is disabled when there are codes).
Now I just have to figure out what to replace to get rid of that annoying whine from when the shop put in my watetpump. Temp is perfect, but the engine sounds like there is a Procharger on it. Is it just a new tensioner? Or chain and gears?
I just can't understand why the TC and ABS codes have stopped. What does new injectors have to do with them? And the added benefit... my remote start works again! (That function is disabled when there are codes).
Now I just have to figure out what to replace to get rid of that annoying whine from when the shop put in my watetpump. Temp is perfect, but the engine sounds like there is a Procharger on it. Is it just a new tensioner? Or chain and gears?
#63
As we have said over and over: it is the p0171 that causes the TC and ABS warnings. The traction control turns off because the engine is not running right, and the computer is trying to get your attention; in an aircraft the next step would be to blow air on your face.
#64
Thanks, Don. Also, the mechanic where I got my car inspected said that any engine code could turn off the TC, so a bad injector could also be the culprit. Since I have had this TC problem since the car was just one year old, it could have been a faulty injector. Just wondering...
Anyways, just glad it seems to be all over.
Anyways, just glad it seems to be all over.
#66
I am. Love seeing no code lights! But, when on the lift, we checked yo see clunking noise. No suspension problems, bur the exhaust pipe broken before muffler. Got new pipe and coupler, waiting for the rain to stop so I can install it
#68
Neither one. The easiest one to get to-except when it is raining. Right after the U pipe over the rear axle. I had a Y pipe welded there years ago, for dual exhaust. The shop did a bad job and it all rusted out. To simplify things, I just went back to a single exhaust and wrapped a piece of metal around the hole in the pipe. But everything totally rusted through. So now I got a coupler and short piece of pipe to connect my muffler (a nice Magnaflow).
#70
Don, I just rechecked your link-when I looked the first time, I thought it was redundant because the kit had the clips and o rings that are included with the new injectors. All that is really needed is the sleeves-guess they are not available separately.
Day 3 and still no codes. I checked with my tester and all fine. I can't wait to check my gas mileage to see if it has improved (ever since I began driving, I keep a log book with every fill up, maintenance, codes, etc. My dad was a CPA and did it, and it seemed like a good idea)
EXCEPT I did get the TC light which came on while I was stopped at a traffic light. When I restarted my car, it went out, then a little while later, the ABS light came on. When I hooked up my meter, there were still no engine codes. But I did get a message C0045-my left rear wheel sensor is erratic or malfunctioning. Guess I will have to check the wires and connections. And perhaps change the hub.
Day 3 and still no codes. I checked with my tester and all fine. I can't wait to check my gas mileage to see if it has improved (ever since I began driving, I keep a log book with every fill up, maintenance, codes, etc. My dad was a CPA and did it, and it seemed like a good idea)
EXCEPT I did get the TC light which came on while I was stopped at a traffic light. When I restarted my car, it went out, then a little while later, the ABS light came on. When I hooked up my meter, there were still no engine codes. But I did get a message C0045-my left rear wheel sensor is erratic or malfunctioning. Guess I will have to check the wires and connections. And perhaps change the hub.