Ok dude you can back off with the attitude. I’m trying to understand why the scanner is flagging that item out of spec. You know, use all this new fancy technology.

I wasn’t even accelerating. I was sitting in the driveway idling. And how could it command outside of the operating range? Wouldn’t that mean something is wrong with gas pedal?

Also another odd ball. The last freeze frame data shows IAT at -40. That’s impossible on May 4 for IAT to be -40.

 

The IAT is from the MAF sensor, perhaps yours is dirty ( it can be cleaned with MAF sensor spray, Not Carb or brake cleaner)
or replace the MAF

 

What attitude, dude? You asked a question, I answered the question. When you accelerate the computer temporarily dumps fuel to avoid a lag; like a carburetor's accelerator pump.

If you don't know all of the "computer stuff" involved in OBD2 it is best to not even look at all of that data, you can end up in a rabbit warren.
IAT -40 sounds like disconnected MAF.

Bye.

 

More of an education than an attitude. You can’t read everything like you’re reading in attitude. Read information!

 

These temperature sensors go full hot when grounded and full cold (-40) when open. You have an open circuit in the IAT. Check the plug at the MAF.

 

the fact you threw in an unnecessary comment about carbs and accel pumps certainly seemed like you were taking a jab at me donbrew. if you werent than i apologize but thats what it sounded like to me.

i agree compression is low, BUT i have owned a truck with a burned exhaust valve that ran like garbage. this car does not do that. it runs perfect.

so my update from the weekend- unfortunately i didnt have as much time to work on the car as i would have liked. life necessitated that i drive the car sunday.

Saturday night I put the car back together- i found more items that crap mechanic destroyed. i found a loose bolt that may have been causing a vacuum leak. I also tossed a vacuum gauge on the car, rock solid no shaking.

drove the car sunday probably 30 miles, several restarts. zero codes, none even pending. car is running perfectly at the moment.

so now this part is pure speculation on my part, but id like some insight- this car suffered the infamous butyl patch as well as a leaking sunroof drain, which resulted in a soaked interior when i got it. literally standing water up thru the carpet. i gutted the interior, cleaned it and dried it all out. Sunday I found my sunroof had clogged again and got my driver floor wet. this caused my interior lights to start staying on, which is actually how I found it.

so that gets me thinking- given all of the very odd electrical items, is it possible I have a ground issue, or a communication issue somewhere (would this be the canbus?) or could all of the standing water have damaged the wiring somewhere? when i pulled back the drivers side carpet to dry it out, there certainly is a lot of wiring under there that was in water.

I know for a fact the MAF was not unplugged when it read -40, so that would mean a possible wiring issue somewhere or bad MAF. it did try cleaning it before.

 

Sorry, I didn't know that you had a past with carbs. I'm like that with my ex I hope you are in recovery.
Not unnecessary, I was giving an example; hoping that the reader would know that accelerator pumps work to avoid lag upon acceleration. Maybe people don't know what a carb is anymore.
There are ground points under the seats and in the side trim panels. Do you know for a fact that the MAF wire pins were secure in on both ends when the freeze frame data was saved? Freeze frame is the data at the moment a CEL is requested.
canbus communication errors cause error codes. They are normally caused by a module not getting power from a loose wire or bad fuse.

 

so I can’t say for sure pins are 100% set. Things are plugged in that I know. At this point I’m thinking of checking grounds and pins for hood connections

 

also random question- I mentioned the timing chain tensioner before, tons of threads about replacing that, but like I said mine has the hump- which old blue said all 2.4s do. do I still need to think about changing that as a maintenance item?

 

Not unless you inspect the chain and find slack between the sprockets, then replace the chain and the tensioner.