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No coolant temp

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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 08:32 AM
  #21  
donbrew's Avatar
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BTW, no gas involved, it is wax inside the copper thingy.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 08:46 AM
  #22  
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When the ---F reading appeared on mine it was under warranty so dealer fixed it for free. The issue is with the before and after temps. If the variance is out of spec the ECU lets you know but won't tell you what the issue is.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 09:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Lonwane
When the ---F reading appeared on mine it was under warranty so dealer fixed it for free. The issue is with the before and after temps. If the variance is out of spec the ECU lets you know but won't tell you what the issue is.
I think its if the car doesn't get up to temperature quick enough, the ECU determines it cannot properly monitor temperature, and puts itself into safety mode by disabling AC and turning cooling fans on high to avoid possible overheating, since it doesn't know what the actual engine temp is.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 12:45 PM
  #24  
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Damn! That's a lot cheaper! I should have checked it there. Lesson learned.

Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
Glad it's working for you, that old one was certainly a problem. $81 OUCH!! I think I'm gonna order one now, just to have it. 20% off coupon right now on Amazon, comes to about $32, w/free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-131-1...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 01:05 PM
  #25  
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Actually the GM one also has a rubber gasket on the valve but it's a lot smaller and seems to be molded onto it. You can see it in the second to last picture if you zoom in.

Some people are stubborn (me) and need to learn a lesson. ;-)

The thermostat can cause the engine running cooler if its stuck open. You are correct about it's job but it's not an on/off valve. It gradually opens and closes adjusting the coolant flow. It that's obstructed the symphony falls apart. Now that I have the new one the engine seems to run 5-10F cooler. It used to swing between 190 and 200F. Now it's around 183F +/- a few degrees depending on speed. Probably because it can move freely while the old one was sticking.

Regardless you were right about the thermostat being the culprit. So thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by donbrew
That is the aforementioned inner rubber gasket that always fails on the wrong t-stat!

The 131-158 is metal to metal, no point of failure.

I wish people would start listening to us "old farts".

The t-stat has nothing to do with the motor running cooler; as I have tried to make clear it's job is to keep the temp ABOVE 180F and to get it there QUICKLY from a cold start.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 01:21 PM
  #26  
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I know, I know. But having no code threw me off. Even if it was something else I would have changed the thermostat for good measure. I don't trust the PO.

I changed as much of the coolant as I could. From the 2+ gallons about 1.5 came out. And I flushed the radiator.

Originally Posted by Oldblue
You’re welcome, ( I so want to say, “Told Ya”) but yupp it was the thermostat! Glad you listened and found that gasket issue and the flap problem and the rubbing shiny copper thingy.
Now, go forth and enjoy the ride!

Did you change the Dexcool?
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 01:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
BTW, no gas involved, it is wax inside the copper thingy.
Ha! Good to know! Thanks! I always thought it was some sort of gas expanding.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 01:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Lonwane
When the ---F reading appeared on mine it was under warranty so dealer fixed it for free. The issue is with the before and after temps. If the variance is out of spec the ECU lets you know but won't tell you what the issue is.
This is most likely what I had with the thermostat sticking. It also explains why I didn't have a code.
Old Jun 12, 2018 | 01:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by aradmahogany
I think its if the car doesn't get up to temperature quick enough, the ECU determines it cannot properly monitor temperature, and puts itself into safety mode by disabling AC and turning cooling fans on high to avoid possible overheating, since it doesn't know what the actual engine temp is.
When that happens you get a code. My case was different. I had the A/C disabled but the auxiliary fan was not on nor I had a code. After I pulled out the thermostat I saw the rub mark on the little copper canister so I figured it was sticking. The rubber seal was also coming off but I don't think that was the problem that tripped the computer.
Old Oct 11, 2018 | 08:23 AM
  #30  
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I am having the same issue. My temp has always displayed up until this last weekend. I haven't tested to see if the A/C is working as the outside temperature has been nice. I did see that it was working the other day when I left work about 5pm local time. It may be the sensor going out, but I haven't tried replacing anything yet. I wanted to see if others were having the same issue.



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