islaconmigo

Hi, I have trying to solve a problem with my car for two weeks
Nothing happened with car, it just stood one night and no crunk, no start now
Chevrolet HHR LT 2008

When I turn the key in the position ON, fuel pump doesn't turn on, relay of the fuel pump haven't power.
When I turn the key in the START position, the instrument panel goes out and the car will not start.
Radio, light, etc. work.
Message on the display "Power Steering"
When connecting a PC I have errors U2105, U2106, B1000.
Grounds checked, battery checked, fuses and relays checked, connections checked.
Starter, fuel pump and motor of power steering work good when plugging power directly.

CAN bus testing:
power at pin 16 of DLC and grounds to pin 4 and pin 5 of DLC - 12,3 volts
power at pin 6 of DLC to ground (body) - 1,72 volts (must be 2,5)
power at pin 14 of DLC to ground (body) - 1,66 volts (must be 2,5)
then I disconnected battery and ohmed out pin 6 and pin 14 - 62 ohms


How can I find out where exactly is the problem at the High Speed bus?
Or maybe the problem lies elsewhere?

RJ_RS_SS_350

to the forums!!

Has the ignition switch recall been performed yet? Also sounds like a dead battery. Another member had his battery tested as 'normal', but the voltages and CCA was low. Battery replaced, problem solved.

islaconmigo

Thanks

at me - no, before me - I don't know
I tried with two other batteries

donbrew

A wire is shorting or a connector is loose to one of the computers. My guess would be the TCM Connector. Maybe the wiring harness is frayed somewhere.

A site that I am not sure about says that the U2105 & U2106 refer to the Transmission Control Module. It says U2105 is the neutral switch and U2106 is the cruise control is whacky.

Could be one of the fuses.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/

Don't be probing the DLC, it won't tell you anything.

islaconmigo

How I can check it?

I checked all

Thanks for link. Recall status: incomplet

whopper

Have you measured the amperage draw on the battery before, and during the attempt to start it?

Oldblue

Welcome to the site, check the ground wires at the transmission case just down to your right looking at the oil filter cap! Also the master fuse in the spare tire area by the battery and check the ground wire back there.
Inspect the fuse box halves in the underhood fuse box are clean and tight.

donbrew

a. by looking at it
b.
c.get them done! could be related to the ignition recall. Any GM dealer can do it

islaconmigo

I can't, my multimeter measures only up to 5 amps. Will try to find another

All fuses was checed, and all ground was checked and cleaned
Inspected, all is right
visually all wires are in good condition. Also all connections was cleaned

It is difficult to do. The dealer is 200 kilometers away. Tow truck will cost $150. How to verify that this is a problem

whopper

Quote:
Originally Posted by whopper View Post

Have you measured the amperage draw on the battery before, and during the attempt to start it?

I can't, my multimeter measures only up to 5 amps. Will try to find another

Looking at your issue again, and some of the comments/suggestions, now that the grounds have been taken care of, I'm leaning towards Donbrew's suggestions about the TCM connection needing an inspection looking for a bad connection there.


Re: checking the amperage draw, I wouldn't worry about that at this point, but a tip for you ......
I ran into the same thing a while back with a limit of 10amp with my multimeter, and it didn't work on the mA ranges. But I got around the problem by using fuses rather than the multimeter to get a rough idea of the current draw: starting with a high amperage fuse (ie 20A etc) connect it between the negative post on the battery and ground, turn on the ignition switch (but don't start it) - if fuse blows you know it is drawing more than 20A. If it doesn't blow, do the same again with a smaller fuse over and over, untill one blows.

IE: If it doesn't blow with a 10A, but blows with a 5A, you know the draw is between 5 and 10 amp, which gives you a rough idea at least.

Being that the starter isn't turning over, I'd do the same fuse swap starting with a high amperage one while trying to actually start it.