bobiroc

Ok I am at my wits end. Once again my turbo has gone into "limp" mode. Last time I brought it to a dealer that was an hour and half out of my way and they made some adjustments to the wastegate and it was fine for months even though I felt it has less power than when I first had the stage kit installed. Now today I was driving home normally and the car felt sluggish when accelerating. So at the next stop I decided to give it a little more gas than I normally do in driving and the boost would barely get above 0. When the dealer looked at it last time they mentioned if it happened again they would replace the Wastegate actuator solenoid I think. I am afraid to take it to the dealer where I bought it as I am not confident they know my car well enough but I do not want nor have the time to drive all the way to that other dealer every time I have a problem.

Anything that can be helpful information to give the dealer would be appreciated. I love my HHR but these little turbo issues are driving me insane.

THE BATMAN

One of the biggest problems is that most dealers sold a couple of SS' and when they get one in the shop, It's the first one the've seen.

Trust me , I know.

bobiroc

Well I kind of lost confidence in them when I first inquired about the stage kit and they didn't even know what it was. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and brought in a sheet with the actual part numbers and basic instructions for installing it and they told me that it was an aftermarket part. It had a GM part number. That's when a member here suggested I call Crate Engine Depot/Rockenbach chevy where the kit was installed. All was great until I got a service engine soon light and the dealer where I bought it from replaced a MAP sensor and ever since that the turbo has not been right in my opinion.

I met you Batman at the Ecotec car show at Rockenbach in June. I like what you have done with your HHR. Very original and it is nice that you do the work yourself and keep the costs low. I wish I had that kind of time and talent. I am an IT guy and computers I can do, but cars not so much. I am sure if I put my mind to it I could do some of the work but I am afraid of screwing my car up.

THE BATMAN

Yeh Thanks man how are you, I think i remeber you.
You can do anything, Just plan it , Realize and learn to minimize mistakes , And take your time. You'll be fine.

Don06

I haven't seen the system on the HHR. On any turbocharged engine there are two possibilities for low turbocharger pressure, turbo not compressing air or compressed air leaking. The first can be a plugged air filter, restricted exhaust, failed turbo or EGR valve sticking which usually causes rough idling and would set a code. The pressure can be leaked off by the wastegate valve which regulates the boost pressure. A hose or clamp failure can also leak off pressure. Intercoolers can leak air also.

bobiroc

I experienced a little rough idling today actually. This is the first time that has happened. The odd thing is if I shut the car off and let it rest for a little while it will have turbo pressure again. I just don't want to bring it to the dealer for them to say they cannot recreate the problem again. It is intermittent and when it happened before I could sometimes get it to happen by giving the car a lot of gas but not always.

prod

You say the dealership replaced a map sensor. Could it be they used the factory map sensor instead of the one included in the turbo upgrade?

Don06

That definitely sounds like a wastegate valve sticking. Other leaks won't come and go. Rev it up and back off in a lower gear. With the engine reving high and the throttle closing, you should get the highest boost pressure and cause the wastegate to open to it's maximum. Since it doesn't open all the way very often, carbon can build up and cause it to stick.

With any turbocharged engine, and this can't be stressed enough, you need to let it idle and cool down before shutting the engine down. Many heavy equipment companies have the computer set up so it won't allow the engine to be shut off without proper cool down time. The exhaust side can reach temperatures over 1,000 degrees. The engine oil flowing through the center bearing cools it and the seals. When you shut off the engine, oil stops flowing and the exhaust heat soaks into the bearing and seals. The oil on the bearing can get hot enough to turn into carbon that will ruin the bearing. Heat can also damage the seals and allow oil to leak into the intake or exhaust which causes carbon build up in the system. Exhaust temperatures at idle are usually about 350 degrees so the turbo will cool off.

Another leak I've seen is failed intake manifold gaskets but that won't come and go either.

bobiroc

No.. I made sure to mention that I had the stage kit installed and when the service sheet came back it had the correct part number for the MAP sensor. Then when I took it to the other dealer they confirmed it had all the right sensors too. I asked them to check because I thought the same thing.

bobiroc

Forgive my ignorance but is that wastegate valve you are referring to part of the actuator solenoid that I mentioned above. This information is helpful as I can try and go in and sound like I know what I am talking about. I hate walking into the car dealer and giving half assed general information. I guess that comes from working in IT and it really bugs me when people give generic information about their computer problem.