Last night my car started making a knocking sound while on the road. I nursed it 3 miles to my destination and shut it down. Checked the oil level and it wasn't reading on the stick. I walked to the local store and got some oil and put 3 quarts in and it read max on the stick.

I turned the engine over and it sounded just fine at idle, however, when you put some pull on the engine the knock is still there. There is no sign of leaking oil so it is burning it up somewhere. My best guess is the noise is a rod knocking.

My question is, how easy is it to remove the oil pan on the 2.2? I know it's a long shot, but I'd like to try to find the rod that is knocking and hope that it's the bearing and it hasn't destroyed anything so I can replace it. I really don't have the money for an engine overhaul/swap at this time.

 

It's a pretty easy job - but likely will be a futile exercise. 3 Miles of knocking, and 3 quarts low does not sound good at all. At the very least, you should have shut it down at the first sign of the noise.

 

You're probably right. So, there isn't really anything major that I have to move out of the way or drop down to get it out? I figure attempting a $100 fix is worth trying if my next option is a $1700 engine/labor. My old man was able to do the same job once on a VW Rabbit and it ran another 5 years. Trying to be positive about the situation but it's getting harder all the time

 

It's probably terminal, but here's the latest thread on dropping the pan, just click the link below.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/i-did-stupid-thing-today-49207/

 

Thanks, 843de! I tried a search on oil panel removal and didn't have luck finding anything before posting. Everything must be going south for me right now!

 

For the 2.2 GM says:
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
2. Place a drain pan under the oil pan drain plug.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove the engine drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.
6. Remove the lower AC compressor bolt.
7. Remove the oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan
9. Remove any old oil pan sealant

Reinstall:
1. Ensure that the oil pan and the sealing surface on the lower crankcase are free of all oil and
debris.
2. Apply a 2 mm bead of sealant (1) GM PN 12346286 (Canadian PN 10953472) or
equivalent, around the perimeter of the oil pan and the oil suction port opening. DO NOT
over apply the sealant. More than a 2 mm bead is not required.
3. Install the oil pan.
4. Install the oil pan bolts.
5. Tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown (diagram not included here_
Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
6. Install the lower AC compressor bolt.
7. Install the engine drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the engine oil to the proper level.

 

Thanks a ton, Whopper! That will be very helpful. You guys are great! I'll chime in after we attempt the fix and let you know what happens. I'm just hoping for the best. If I had the means of buying an engine or different vehicle, I would. But money sure is tight these days.

 

It has a split crankcase (two-part), and the way the lower half is cast I'm not sure how much access is available to the con rod bearings and the crank even with the oil pan off. Looks like a VERY tight fit, just the way it is made.

 

I think I remember seeing that the "correct" way is to work on the bottom end turned up. Like on a rotatable engine stand.

 

Well, got it to the garage and got underneath to drain the oil and on the passenger side there is oil all over the subframe. Got a bad leak somewhere on that side. It's shot, so new engine it is. FML. What gets me the most is that I unknowingly lost 3 quarts of oil and didn't get any CEL or low oil pressure warning or nothing. I figured it would have done something.