Wizard24

2009 SS car only putting out 12 1/2 Volts. Installed a new battery and a new alternator and still not charging. Two weeks prior I had the scanner plugged in and did happen to see that it was charging at 13.47. I did charge the new battery prior to installation. As stated in title the battery light is not illuminated on the dash. I have not checked thoroughly the wiring on the alternator plug I took a quick look at it and it looked OK all the wiring in the car seems to be in very good condition. Anyway to test the wires coming out of the alternator plug.

donbrew

It is a digital regulator; it does not always output 14 volts. Does the battery run down?

Wizard24

The reason I changed it on my 30 mile drive home the electrical started cutting in and out items like the radio Dash lights flickering and headlights noticeably dimmer. Made it back to work the next day then she wouldn’t restart because of a low battery. Didn’t know the history of the battery it was only a year old but a cheaper brand so I went ahead and changed it anyway then put a new alternator on and still the same only a little over 12 V but no I have not taken it on a long run home because of the fear Of getting stuck.I’ve only owned it six months but have put 10,000 miles on it without any problems . I forgot to mention when the battery was running low and some of the electrical components cutting in and out the Traction control lamp and ABS lamp he came illuminated. I believe service ECS came on in the digital display.

Oldblue

Clean the red wires at the starter and the fuse box under the hood and alternator, make sure they are tight.
clean the ground wires to, make sure they are tight .

inspect the under hood fuse box are the halves tight?

Wizard24

I’ll go ahead and check all the wiring. Just to let you know it Was a California car and now resides in South Florida.Wiring appears to be spotless but I know that doesn’t mean anything. Motor was out prior to me getting the car to receive a new head timing chain and all the other goodies that need to be done while the motor is out. Could you give me a heads up on where the different grounds may be located that I should look for.

Oldblue

Ground wires at the transmission housing down to the right of the oil filter housing. Then over on the rad cradle

Wizard24

OK so I figured I would start at the easiest point. Jack her up and dive under to check the wires on the starter. Give a little jiggle and they seem to be a bit loose I could move them side to side, not much, but yes they moved. Go to put a socket on the nut and the socket will not go on. Further inspection reveals some rubber around the nut and on the cable itself. After some cutting and picking at it with a pic I was able to remove the material and get the socket on and take the nut off. After pulling the main cable down and looking at it it may have gotten hot at one time and leaked some rubbery type material over the face of it. My guess is when the guy put the engine back in he probably did not realize the material was on the cable end and just put it back together, tightened her down and probably thought the nut was on good but it was stuck in the rubbery material which was not mashing the cables down to make a good connection. I cleaned the crap off the cable, put her back together, fired her up and lo and behold we’re back to 13.87 V with the air And headlights on. I think she’s fixed so I’ll take her home tonight and see how she treats me. it was probably time for a new alternator anyway it looked to be the original and she’s got quite a few miles on her. Thanks for the help I’ll let you know how she’s doing tomorrow. Thanks again

Oldblue

I suggest , seeing as the cable has been compromised with heat and melted the insulation sheath, replacing those cables!
check the RockAuto site, and don’t forget the discount code!

https://www.rockauto.com/