P0171, No AC, No engine fan, runs rough higher engine temps
Having that code can disable the AC.
There is no reason to jack up the engine for a simple alternator change. It comes out the top on my SS, because the charge piping is under it. Not sure if it will go out the bottom on an LS/LT. I just changed mine, it wasn't as easy as I expected, but not too bad.
" I was looking around the crankshaft area with cover off checking to see if anything was rubbing the belt and I noticed the engne below the timing chain was leaking oil and maybe 1/4 inch from I think the frame? I can see telhe transmission mount almost completely gone" What does all this mean? What cover did you remove? What transmission mount are you seeing near the timing chain?
There is no reason to jack up the engine for a simple alternator change. It comes out the top on my SS, because the charge piping is under it. Not sure if it will go out the bottom on an LS/LT. I just changed mine, it wasn't as easy as I expected, but not too bad.
" I was looking around the crankshaft area with cover off checking to see if anything was rubbing the belt and I noticed the engne below the timing chain was leaking oil and maybe 1/4 inch from I think the frame? I can see telhe transmission mount almost completely gone" What does all this mean? What cover did you remove? What transmission mount are you seeing near the timing chain?
The mechanic jacked it up to align the tensioner bolt. He didnt bother checking mounts. I was unaware of the issue until recently.
I took my wheel off, took off the wheel well covers which gave me access to my crank, water pump and belt so I could check if the belt was routed wrong or if an obvious sign showed why it was getting those marks.
I noticed the engine tilted a little back and I peeked closer and see ln the transmission mount in the back destroyed, like the rubber was almost missing. Directly under the crank, the frame thats there, the left side of the engine was slanted and almost hitting it. I will get pictures tommorow.
Would you have any insite to why a brand new belt would get those lines all through it? 2006 2.2 calls for that belt. I feel like the one on it before was 405 instead a 400 belt. I know the person I got it from used a later year as a parts car and curious if the compressor or something is different causing this belt to be to small.
Just letting it sit idling will usually bring it up to fan on time. That will also help diagnose if the t-stat is stuck. Most folks think 190 is too hot, the t-stats job is to keep the temp ABOVE 180F so around 190F is normal when running highway speed.
I also seen a post about the coolant overflow. I seen that it cant be filled up. I am guilty of this. I was unaware of the cooling system using it requiring to have a set amount in. On the post it said where to fill to. So I want to fill it where the bubble comes out? Right now its over half full and I am curious if this has been causing my circulation problems.
Going to take what oldblue said about the water pump and do some inspecting. Will I be able to diagnose a bad water pump with the water pump cover off?
No , that cover just allows access to the water pump bolts.
If you mean your coolant is low and there is air in the system, follow directions to burp the system and ensure the air is removed
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-system-60614/
If you mean your coolant is low and there is air in the system, follow directions to burp the system and ensure the air is removed
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-system-60614/
Wasnt able to idle it to fan speed. I was sitting in checkers drive throigh and it hit 216 to 217 to I think 219. It went 219 to 218 back to 219 and almost instantly dropped to 198 down to 183 in a matter of maybe 4 seconds. Im sitting here in a parking lot trying ti get it up again and it wont go up. If it gas for a minute I can get it to raise. Any ideas why holding gas it raises the temperature instead of cooling down from the heat being on?
No , that cover just allows access to the water pump bolts.
If you mean your coolant is low and there is air in the system, follow directions to burp the system and ensure the air is removed
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-system-60614/
If you mean your coolant is low and there is air in the system, follow directions to burp the system and ensure the air is removed
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-system-60614/
After I typed that, I seen it hit 219. I went and checked quickly and the fan engaged at 219! So I am Going to be burping system and doing thermostat in a little bit. Icam also going to be changing plugs so while im there I am going to be removing my valve cover to check my timing chain. Any test from up there where I can check if my water pump is potentially good or bad?
Wasnt able to idle it to fan speed. I was sitting in checkers drive throigh and it hit 216 to 217 to I think 219. It went 219 to 218 back to 219 and almost instantly dropped to 198 down to 183 in a matter of maybe 4 seconds. Im sitting here in a parking lot trying ti get it up again and it wont go up. If it gas for a minute I can get it to raise. Any ideas why holding gas it raises the temperature instead of cooling down from the heat being on?
The temperature increases when you raise the RPMs, because there are many more fiery explosions happening in the engine.
It really shouldn't get to 219, though. Let's see if the burping helps. You realize that you need to burp it every day for awhile.
Radiator fan. Sorry I haven't responded. Just back from the tire well. I guess I have more issues than I thought. I was looking around the crankshaft area with cover off checking to see if anything was rubbing the belt and I noticed the engne below the timing chain was leaking oil and maybe 1/4 inch from I think the frame? I can see telhe transmission mount almost completely gone and it scares me because hitting bumps I may have cracked something. Getting dark now which kinda sucks but tommorows a new day.
Blower moter, heat and all that work except when I hit tje AC button, it lights up but no engagement of the compressor. You posted a diagram before of the control panel and I seen that when you click ac it sends a signal. Looking on the diagram I cant tell if the ac button would light up but not complete the connection?
I am a huge fan of your knowledge bro. If you ever post a wiring schematic, ill follow it to a T.
Blower moter, heat and all that work except when I hit tje AC button, it lights up but no engagement of the compressor. You posted a diagram before of the control panel and I seen that when you click ac it sends a signal. Looking on the diagram I cant tell if the ac button would light up but not complete the connection?
I am a huge fan of your knowledge bro. If you ever post a wiring schematic, ill follow it to a T.
If you are changing out your thermostat, get an AC Delco 131-158 180 degree . The others will give you problems.
and the spark plugs, AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs, do not attempt to gap them, that little whisker breaks off very easily.
when you refill the coolant after the thermostat swap, use Dexcool 50/50 premix , I use the Prestone brand , it has a 5 year shelve life!
and the spark plugs, AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs, do not attempt to gap them, that little whisker breaks off very easily.
when you refill the coolant after the thermostat swap, use Dexcool 50/50 premix , I use the Prestone brand , it has a 5 year shelve life!
If you are changing out your thermostat, get an AC Delco 131-158 180 degree . The others will give you problems.
and the spark plugs, AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs, do not attempt to gap them, that little whisker breaks off very easily.
when you refill the coolant after the thermostat swap, use Dexcool 50/50 premix , I use the Prestone brand , it has a 5 year shelve life!
and the spark plugs, AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs, do not attempt to gap them, that little whisker breaks off very easily.
when you refill the coolant after the thermostat swap, use Dexcool 50/50 premix , I use the Prestone brand , it has a 5 year shelve life!


