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P0172 Code- Help Please

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Old 07-27-2018, 09:13 AM
  #31  
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Not really, that just tells you what you already know. The MAF and MAP should set their own codes if bad.

The injectors have seals and insulators that can leak as well as just wearing out, You can probably get the job done by yourself for around $100.
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Not really, that just tells you what you already know. The MAF and MAP should set their own codes if bad.

The injectors have seals and insulators that can leak as well as just wearing out, You can probably get the job done by yourself for around $100.
Are you suggesting that I should replace the injectors next?
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:31 AM
  #33  
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Since you've done everything else, I would suspect a slightly leaky injector.
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:37 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cturboaddict
She only drives a very short distance to work everyday (not even a mile).
This could also be part of the problem, The car is super rich on start up in order to get everything nice and toasty for the engine to run correctly. With that short of drive I bet the engine barely cracks 120 degress, and never really fully gets into closed loop, and probably is almost always in open loop.
Open Loop
When the engine is first started the system goes into open loop operation. In open loop, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant and MAF sensors. The system remains in open-loop until the following three conditions are met:
  • Coolant temperature above 105°F.
  • Oxygen sensor has varying output voltage (indicating it is hot enough to operate properly).
  • A specific amount of time (preprogrammed into the MEM-CAL) has elapsed
CLOSED LOOP

When all of the above conditions are met, the system goes into closed loop operation. In this mode, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based, mainly, on input from the oxygen sensor and maintains the Air/Fuel ratio at the desired 14.7 to 1.

My new suggestion would be doing a lobotomy and doing a nice long highway cruise at at least 60 MPH or above for at least an hour if you can.


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Old 07-28-2018, 06:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by aradmahogany
This could also be part of the problem, The car is super rich on start up in order to get everything nice and toasty for the engine to run correctly. With that short of drive I bet the engine barely cracks 120 degress, and never really fully gets into closed loop, and probably is almost always in open loop.
Open Loop
When the engine is first started the system goes into open loop operation. In open loop, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant and MAF sensors. The system remains in open-loop until the following three conditions are met:
  • Coolant temperature above 105°F.
  • Oxygen sensor has varying output voltage (indicating it is hot enough to operate properly).
  • A specific amount of time (preprogrammed into the MEM-CAL) has elapsed
CLOSED LOOP

When all of the above conditions are met, the system goes into closed loop operation. In this mode, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based, mainly, on input from the oxygen sensor and maintains the Air/Fuel ratio at the desired 14.7 to 1.

My new suggestion would be doing a lobotomy and doing a nice long highway cruise at at least 60 MPH or above for at least an hour if you can.
I don't know how well I'd drive after a lobotomy.... LOL
So, you're thinking maybe running some injector cleaner and hammering this thing down the highway for a good drive is in order before disassembly of anything?
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Old 07-28-2018, 07:17 AM
  #36  
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That is good suggestion. Try it, it can't hurt.
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:23 AM
  #37  
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Uploaded Repair Videos

Finally got to getting the videos uploaded of the repairs.
EVAP Purge Solenoid-

Oxygen Sensor Replacement
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:26 AM
  #38  
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Status Update- Light has Returned

So, I bought some fuel injector cleaner (add in gas walmart deal). Topped off the fuel, added the injector cleaner. Cleared code. Took for a heavy highway drive, laying into the pedal plenty to get this lil go cart moving the best i could. Light stayed off for an entire week while my wife did her normal VERY SHORT drive to work. After that week, the light returned.

I've purchased a much better fuel injector cleaner the BG 44K fuel injector cleaner enricher. I'm going to try this again and see if the light returns. Will update after. I'm going to guess, if this doesn't do what I'm looking for, then injectors would be the next route.
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:09 AM
  #39  
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The more cost effective thing to do is replace the injectors, cleaning and rebuilding usually are a waste of money. You can get a set of injectors and seals for about $100, last I looked BG44K was around $40.

The bluish color of the old O2 sensor could indicate somebody has used silicone products that got into the combustion.
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:33 AM
  #40  
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Double check the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the flange for soot , evidence of an exhaust leak.
can you get a look under the flex pipe with your camera?
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