What I meant by each side is testing each pole to the ground that is marked as you say. I figure that one side is going into the fuse block and the other is going out to the various electrical parts. Testing those poles against each other doesn't give any reading because there is no ground, as I'm sure you know.

Also, I don't recommend to anyone to jump start your car as described in the manual. I did it once and popped the main 60 amp fuse in the fuse block. You can slow/fast charge your battery that way no problem, but jump starting or using the "boost" charge is a risk, in my opinion of course. Luckily I was able to get the dealership to cover it under warranty. They would have soaked me plenty had they charged me.

 

You obviously know more about it than we do. You have figured out how to blow the 60 amp fuse that serves the BCM not the underhood fuse box.

 

I'm no master mechanic, but I've turned my fair share of wrenches over the years, but it was all pre-computer. I'm a nuts and bolts kind of guy, it's electrical issues such as this that is my weak link. I wish I knew more. Unfortunately my regular mechanic is on vacation (the nerve!! ). He actually told me to stay off of Google and leave the car fixing to him, but I can't help it.

Just an update: as I suspected from this penetrating cable cleaner that I sprayed on the crimp connections at the fuse box poles, today my multi-meter was reading over 11 volts. I remember reading somewhere that someone suggested cleaning and recrimping the connection ends to resolve a faulty wiring harness, as you can't always see the corrosion.

I'll be taking the car to work tomorrow, approx 47 miles. I'll have my AAA card ready.

 

So on the ride home my check engine light came back on, as I suspected it might. Couple of questions.
1. Is there more than one camshaft sensor? The error code specifically says Camshaft Position Sensor A. If so, there are two identical sensors on top of the head. Which one is A?? I would assume it's the one that is the most forward.
2. Can the corroded connections I cleaned up, cause the sensor to go bad?

There was some hesitation on the ride home, but it seems to vary with the speed, almost like the old spark advance system. If there was a vacuum leak, the faster you went, the worse it got. So I'm guessing the sensor is acting similar to a spark advance?

Thanks!

 

When did you mention camshaft position sensors previously?

Circuit A is not the same as sensor A.

From the data that you have provided so far, you have a wire grounding or loose or frayed.

The ECU connector is suspect, also.

Please learn how to use Google, SEARCH and links provided. They really simplify your life!

 

Fwiw.
Error codes do not "specifically" say anything. The code will just say that a bad reading was detected in the circuit related to that specific part.
Just because it says "Camshaft Position Sensor", does not always indicate that specific part is bad.

Never replace parts based solely on a CEL code. That's why all the repair manuals have diagnostic procedures to follow.

 

I'd check the related wire harness connections and ensuring there are no bent pins or chaffed wires

 

Donbrew, I mentioned 2 sensors in my original post. It was Google that told me about 2 sensors and it was also it was Google that brought me to this forum. I'll Google the ECU connector you mentioned to get a location.

Firemangeorge, thanks for that tip, because replacing a sensor was exactly what I was going to do. My regular mechanic will be back next week, I guess I'll just have to wait for him. Normally I always bought a shop manual for any vehicle I ever owned. The world of the internet made me think that was no longer necessary. I'll have to pick one up.

Oldblue, I'll check those connections, but where those sensors are located, under the air cleaner housing, I have no idea how a pin could get bent. I did change the air cleaner, but that was months ago, and before any of my issues started.

I do appreciate all of the repair related advice thus far. Thanks!

 

FWIW the Chilton manual is only good for very basic stuff, it that.

 

Just so happens I picked up the Haynes manual.