PLEASE HELP. Fried computer after "jumping" the fuse box?
12-31-2009, 08:35 PM
#11
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To be honest, I'm not sure. It sounds like there is a right and wrong way to jump the car from under the hood. We did it the wrong way. When we lifted the hood there was a post that looked like the obvious post. We then looked for the other, pulled the lid of the fuse box and saw a second post. The person who was jumping the vehicle tried the positive and negative chargers on both posts (switching when the first time didn't work). At one point there was a spark from the post that is located under the lid of the fuse box.
12-31-2009, 08:36 PM
#12
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Do you have another key to that car? If so did you try that key. The starter works by a relay also. You can look at that. When you turn the key to run will the CK ENG. LIGHT come on. also check that the air bag light will flash 7 times. Things to look at to see if BCM & ECM is seeing the key in the run/on position.
12-31-2009, 08:57 PM
#13
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Yes, definately a right and wrong way to jump start it. Check your manual where it is explained in depth. You do not have to take the fuse box cover off to get at the proper terminal to jump it. The positive terminal has its own little red cover (or should) at the front left corner of the fuse box.
By using the rear terminal (that is only exposed by taking the cover off) and connecting the Positive and then the Negative jumpers you would blow the 60amp power stering fuse and probably caused the spark you spoke of when the Negative jumper was attached as it is a positive connection for the power steering.
You also said that you got it started and drove it without power steering so the BCS must have been working at that point. Did anything else occur after that point that would contribute to it not starting now?
By using the rear terminal (that is only exposed by taking the cover off) and connecting the Positive and then the Negative jumpers you would blow the 60amp power stering fuse and probably caused the spark you spoke of when the Negative jumper was attached as it is a positive connection for the power steering.
You also said that you got it started and drove it without power steering so the BCS must have been working at that point. Did anything else occur after that point that would contribute to it not starting now?
12-31-2009, 09:29 PM
#14
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. We first tried to jump it from the fuse box. That didn't work. I then consulted the owner's manual and discovered that the battery is in the trunk. We then jumped it from the trunk. That worked.
When I drove the vehicle home, I found that I had blown the power steering fuse. I replaced the fuse and the car drove fine for two days before refusing to start.
Is it possible to have blown other fuses (for the computer for example?) and still have it drive for two days? Or maybe a fuse rattled loose?
The shop did not tell me which computer they believed was fried. I didn't know that there are two. This is a general auto mechanic (whom I believe to be very honest). I doubt I could afford whatever the dealership might charge me.
When I drove the vehicle home, I found that I had blown the power steering fuse. I replaced the fuse and the car drove fine for two days before refusing to start.
Is it possible to have blown other fuses (for the computer for example?) and still have it drive for two days? Or maybe a fuse rattled loose?
The shop did not tell me which computer they believed was fried. I didn't know that there are two. This is a general auto mechanic (whom I believe to be very honest). I doubt I could afford whatever the dealership might charge me.
First off, you jump started from under the hood. That is ok. There is a stud at or near the fuse box for the positive connection, and a negitive connection can be made at the strut tower bolt.
I am sure you trust your mechanic, but the truth be known, nobody knows your car like the dealership. I would let the dealership have a crack at it.
12-31-2009, 09:42 PM
#15
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Nothing else happened. I replaced the power steering fuse and then drove the car for the next two days. It then sat untouched for one day. When I tried to start it in the evening, it would not start.
12-31-2009, 09:44 PM
#16
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12-31-2009, 09:45 PM
#17
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[QUOTE=skyeglen;433241]Yes, definately a right and wrong way to jump start it. Check your manual where it is explained in depth. You do not have to take the fuse box cover off to get at the proper terminal to jump it. The positive terminal has its own little red cover (or should) at the front left corner of the fuse box.
Where is the negative terminal?
Where is the negative terminal?
12-31-2009, 10:57 PM
#19
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There is really no negative terminal in the true electrical sense, but rather a negative connection point. One of the strut tower bolts is used for this purpose.
To further explain, look under the hood to the far rear passenger side and driver side corners of the engine compartment. On the passenger side, behind the windshield washer reservior you'll find the top of one tower and on the driver's side behind the HVAC piping you'll find the top of the other tower.
The strut towers are identified by a circular doughnut shaped fitting in the center and 3 bolts in a circle around the outside of the donut. If you look VERY CLOSELY at one of the 3 bolts in the circle on the driver's side behind the HVAC piping, you will see that the bolt has a label at its base reading "- GND". The GND connection point is most likely the one that is oriented closest to the main engine compartment area. If the engine compartment is dirty, you may have to wipe it down to see the label.
The ground connection is not intuitively obvious, but it is there nevertheless.
To further explain, look under the hood to the far rear passenger side and driver side corners of the engine compartment. On the passenger side, behind the windshield washer reservior you'll find the top of one tower and on the driver's side behind the HVAC piping you'll find the top of the other tower.
The strut towers are identified by a circular doughnut shaped fitting in the center and 3 bolts in a circle around the outside of the donut. If you look VERY CLOSELY at one of the 3 bolts in the circle on the driver's side behind the HVAC piping, you will see that the bolt has a label at its base reading "- GND". The GND connection point is most likely the one that is oriented closest to the main engine compartment area. If the engine compartment is dirty, you may have to wipe it down to see the label.
The ground connection is not intuitively obvious, but it is there nevertheless.
01-01-2010, 11:02 AM
#20
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Or you can just use the block as a ground. There are some accessable places to clamp onto!