I'm not commenting on the battery "jump"....been enough criticisms about that.

Just my opinion.....but if you fried your computer (whichever one), you probably couldn't have driven for 2 more days without problems, or some kind of hint, after the original incident.

You MAY have fried something related or you may have had a failure of a totally unrelated part/system, to the original problem (liked the mentioned key FOB, for example).

 

I agree with "Snoopy"

The jumping thing has been beat to death in this trhead here but the key concern, a "no-start" condition and the reported failure of the tech's scan tester to communicate with the ECM, has not been addressed effectively.

I'll add that there were some comments about the BCM, but I suspect there's no problem with it because the original poster said that when he turns the key on the radio and lights come on. They are controlled by the BCM.

As for the ECM not communicating with a scan tester, one reason for that can be a failed ECM, but there are other reasons as well.

If the tech is working with the Factory Service Manual (either the actual book or the electronic "SI" version) there is extensive diagnostic information about failure of a tester to communciate with the ECM and, with that info., the tech should be able to decide (rather than just suspect) whether or not there's a problem with the ECM.

I'll add that, based on the original poster's comments, I think the service facility to which the truck was towed is not a dealer. If I'm correct, let me suggest that some independent garages might not have a scan tester which supports the CAN protocol--in the case of a TECH2 that means the "CANDi module"--required when connecting to the ECM in an HHR. If that's the case in this instance, then the tester will not communicate with the ECM. I'd ask the mechanic if his tester supports CAN. If he says "No." or "I'm not sure." Find another service facility.

 

Thanks for addressing this, Hib. I've been curious about the tester's inability to communicate with the computer as well. It's interesting to know that if the tester doesn't support CAN protocol, it won't be able to communicate with the ECM. It's also helpful to know that if we are looking at a computer problem, it's likely the ECM rather than the BCM.

I do have the car at an independent garage, but am considering having it towed to the dealer on Monday. I'm going to try my other key on it first. It would be great if that's the only problem.

 

No where hear has the word "warranty" come up - unless I missed it. Assuming the car is fairly new and under warranty, I'd go straight to the dealer, minimize everything that happened and let them diagnose under warranty. If your car is out of warranty, that's a bit different....

 

With all due respect to your independent garage, unless they are known as specialists in late model electronic diagnosis and have made significant investments in training and equipment for same, they are in a bit deep. Take it back to where you bought it, and make sure they know you followed the exact procedures for starting outlined in the owners' manual. That's all they need to know to repair this issue.

Could it be related to your attempts to jump? Perhaps, but I'd at first presume otherwise diagnostically were I the technician. Sounds more like a VATS (Vehical Anti-Theft System) issue to me.

 

I have to agree with Bill. After 20+ years as a diagnostician I can attest to the fact that the greatest challenge ANY mechanic has is staying on top of the training and equipment investments in order to be efficient and competitive working on the newer cars. Even with a strong background in auto-electronics I often found the relationships between the different systems complex and most after-market information lacking. Your best bet (but not a guarantee) is with the dealer. Most certainly they have several well-trained technicians who can handle your problem. Ultimately, developing a good relationship with a "goodwrench" will become an asset to your and you HHR experience.

 

The car is out of warranty. It's a 2006 and has roughly 95,000 on it.

 

Thanks for everyone who responded to my question. I'm happy to report that the information some of you provided here worked and saved me hundreds of dollars (maybe more...)!

The problem was, in fact, that the key had become deprogrammed. I took my other key down to the shop on Monday morning, stuck it in the ignition and the thing started right up!

My mechanic had been prepared to rip out the entire computer and replace the system. I'm so glad I did my research over the weekend before I authorized that!

Thanks again to everyone who helped. I can't tell you how grateful I am.

 

Sure you can. You just did

My (our) pleasure!

 

Glad it worked out so well for you.