Possibly a crank position sensor?
06-06-2015, 03:21 AM
#1
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Join Date: 03-28-2012
Location: Detroit
Posts: 13
Possibly a crank position sensor?
I've got a 2011 LT, with the 2.2L engine, 115k miles. I've never had any problems with it until a few days ago.
I though that I had a leak in my exhaust system somewhere, there was a little "tick" when at idle. Tonight though, it ran fine, I came home, and went back out about a half hour later and when it started, it ran horribly bad. It was like it was misfiring, so I shut it off and restarted it, same thing. I took it up the road and it was shifting funny, it would rev higher than normal, and the shift was harsh. I took it out on a main road and it bogged really badly, as if something was obstructing the air intake. There was no check engine light, but there was definitely something wrong. If I pushed the throttle all the way down, it would not downshift and taking off from a standstill, it was if it was taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear.
When I got back home, I shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes and restarted it, and it ran fine, but the CEL was on. Relieved that it had cleared up most of the problem and was at least telling me something, I went about 3 miles up the road, figuring that I can go have the codes read in the morning.
I was at my other house for about 2 hours and when I went out, the car would not start. It just cranked and not even a sputter. I let is sit for a minute or two and it finally started and I was able to get back home. It surges when it's sitting at a red light, and the CEL is still on.
Could this be the crank position sensor that is causing the problem? I'm afraid to drive it to a shop now, because it may not start.
How hard is it to replace a crank sensor in the 2.2L engines?
I though that I had a leak in my exhaust system somewhere, there was a little "tick" when at idle. Tonight though, it ran fine, I came home, and went back out about a half hour later and when it started, it ran horribly bad. It was like it was misfiring, so I shut it off and restarted it, same thing. I took it up the road and it was shifting funny, it would rev higher than normal, and the shift was harsh. I took it out on a main road and it bogged really badly, as if something was obstructing the air intake. There was no check engine light, but there was definitely something wrong. If I pushed the throttle all the way down, it would not downshift and taking off from a standstill, it was if it was taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear.
When I got back home, I shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes and restarted it, and it ran fine, but the CEL was on. Relieved that it had cleared up most of the problem and was at least telling me something, I went about 3 miles up the road, figuring that I can go have the codes read in the morning.
I was at my other house for about 2 hours and when I went out, the car would not start. It just cranked and not even a sputter. I let is sit for a minute or two and it finally started and I was able to get back home. It surges when it's sitting at a red light, and the CEL is still on.
Could this be the crank position sensor that is causing the problem? I'm afraid to drive it to a shop now, because it may not start.
How hard is it to replace a crank sensor in the 2.2L engines?
06-06-2015, 05:19 AM
#2
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,111
Scott. Since the CEL is on, get the codes read. Without the code number, we would just be wildly guessing.
Make sure you get the actual numbers and NOT just a description. example: P0001.
Fwiw. Based on the erratic shifting, sounds like the car may have gone into power reduced mode or "limp" mode as it's referred to.
Make sure you get the actual numbers and NOT just a description. example: P0001.
Fwiw. Based on the erratic shifting, sounds like the car may have gone into power reduced mode or "limp" mode as it's referred to.
06-06-2015, 08:10 AM
#4
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Location: Alabama
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If it's at a shop let them deal with it.
"There was another one that was something about "camshaft correlation". "
Sorry, can't help you without the actual trouble code. As stated before, descriptions of codes don't really help but I will take a wild guess: camshaft position actuator solenoid valve.
"There was another one that was something about "camshaft correlation". "
Sorry, can't help you without the actual trouble code. As stated before, descriptions of codes don't really help but I will take a wild guess: camshaft position actuator solenoid valve.
06-06-2015, 08:32 AM
#6
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
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Yep. Give this thread a read if you want to learn more. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/
Fwiw. There are solenoids and also camshaft position sensors. Sounds like your shop is talking about the solenoids.
Fwiw. There are solenoids and also camshaft position sensors. Sounds like your shop is talking about the solenoids.
06-06-2015, 10:53 AM
#8
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Join Date: 03-28-2012
Location: Detroit
Posts: 13
They worked on it for 2 hours and put it back together because they could not go any further today. They didn't charge me anything, and they did give me a readout of the trouble codes.
The codes that came up in the scanner are p0011, p0014, p0016, and p0017.
They swapped out the camshaft actuators using #6003659 and 3660. I'm not sure whot he actuators were made by, so not sure whos part numbers those are.
They gave me a report that show that 99% of the time, those acuators are the issue. The report also says that the ECM can be the problem, all the way down to chaniging the oil. I just had an oil change done, but before i started running badly, the tick int he engine had me thinking that something didn't sound right, almost as if a lifter wasn't oil (If this car has lifters). They want to dig further into the engine, but I'm not sure if I want to go that route.
I cna change those camshaft actuators out, but that cranskshaft sensor, I'm not so sure about, I've never been under my car to see if my hand will fit up in there.
The codes that came up in the scanner are p0011, p0014, p0016, and p0017.
They swapped out the camshaft actuators using #6003659 and 3660. I'm not sure whot he actuators were made by, so not sure whos part numbers those are.
They gave me a report that show that 99% of the time, those acuators are the issue. The report also says that the ECM can be the problem, all the way down to chaniging the oil. I just had an oil change done, but before i started running badly, the tick int he engine had me thinking that something didn't sound right, almost as if a lifter wasn't oil (If this car has lifters). They want to dig further into the engine, but I'm not sure if I want to go that route.
I cna change those camshaft actuators out, but that cranskshaft sensor, I'm not so sure about, I've never been under my car to see if my hand will fit up in there.
06-06-2015, 03:40 PM
#9
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Join Date: 03-28-2012
Location: Detroit
Posts: 13
I just replaced both camshaft position sensors and both variable vale timing actuators, and still running badly.
Any other suggestions? The next thing that I'd think to replace would be the crankshaft sensor...
Any other suggestions? The next thing that I'd think to replace would be the crankshaft sensor...