Radiator Replacement Troubles
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-07-2020
Posts: 20
From: Long Beach CA
Oh, I thought I could just buy the freon from the store and recharge it that way. It has to be done at a shop? What are those things they sell for then?
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
Since the system has been opened it has to be evacuated (via AC vacuum pump) before it can be recharged. Those kits they sell at the auto store are just for adding freon to a system that has a low charge.
If you don't have the experience or equipment to do the job, it's best left to a pro.
If you don't have the experience or equipment to do the job, it's best left to a pro.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-22-2010
Posts: 2,108
From: Russia Ekaterinburg
About the air conditioner: do not bother buying freon for self-pumping. Just buy all the parts (transport lines, condenser, etc.) and give it all to a professional. To restore the air conditioner, you will need experience, special tools and various little things like rubber rings. A professional will of course take your money, but in return you will receive a high-quality assembly and a guarantee of free error correction. Well, freon, gaskets, etc. will be provided by the pros himself, and I am sure that it is not more expensive than your independent purchase. Just a pro knows where to buy cheaper and buys in large volumes.
About parts replacement: I see broken core support in the photo. Be sure - everything that is located before core support has become unusable and must be replaced.
The core support itself is subject to replacement or repair as stated above. In my experience, core support can be repaired very well and is well worth it the metal there is quite thick and durable. But if you are inclined to replace - it is easy and not expensive to buy, there is a rockauto. Do not forget to paint later.
Step back from the core support ten centimeters into the engine compartment. There is destruction there too. Careful inspection, you will save something, but something will have to be replaced. The real sadness is the fact that there are really expensive parts in this area. Alternator, air conditioning pump, etc. In addition, a glance at the side members - it is unlikely that they were damaged, but it is worth looking closely, the curved body is not what you need.
Well, the cherry on the cake is the hood lock. It is 100% damaged. The part is cheap, but don't skimp on replacement. This will save a lot of money in the further operation of the car. At 90 mph, the incoming air stream is capable of tearing metal, ripping out the hood, arching the radiator.
About parts replacement: I see broken core support in the photo. Be sure - everything that is located before core support has become unusable and must be replaced.
The core support itself is subject to replacement or repair as stated above. In my experience, core support can be repaired very well and is well worth it the metal there is quite thick and durable. But if you are inclined to replace - it is easy and not expensive to buy, there is a rockauto. Do not forget to paint later.
Step back from the core support ten centimeters into the engine compartment. There is destruction there too. Careful inspection, you will save something, but something will have to be replaced. The real sadness is the fact that there are really expensive parts in this area. Alternator, air conditioning pump, etc. In addition, a glance at the side members - it is unlikely that they were damaged, but it is worth looking closely, the curved body is not what you need.
Well, the cherry on the cake is the hood lock. It is 100% damaged. The part is cheap, but don't skimp on replacement. This will save a lot of money in the further operation of the car. At 90 mph, the incoming air stream is capable of tearing metal, ripping out the hood, arching the radiator.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-07-2020
Posts: 20
From: Long Beach CA
About the air conditioner: do not bother buying freon for self-pumping. Just buy all the parts (transport lines, condenser, etc.) and give it all to a professional. To restore the air conditioner, you will need experience, special tools and various little things like rubber rings. A professional will of course take your money, but in return you will receive a high-quality assembly and a guarantee of free error correction. Well, freon, gaskets, etc. will be provided by the pros himself, and I am sure that it is not more expensive than your independent purchase. Just a pro knows where to buy cheaper and buys in large volumes.
About parts replacement: I see broken core support in the photo. Be sure - everything that is located before core support has become unusable and must be replaced.
The core support itself is subject to replacement or repair as stated above. In my experience, core support can be repaired very well and is well worth it the metal there is quite thick and durable. But if you are inclined to replace - it is easy and not expensive to buy, there is a rockauto. Do not forget to paint later.
Step back from the core support ten centimeters into the engine compartment. There is destruction there too. Careful inspection, you will save something, but something will have to be replaced. The real sadness is the fact that there are really expensive parts in this area. Alternator, air conditioning pump, etc. In addition, a glance at the side members - it is unlikely that they were damaged, but it is worth looking closely, the curved body is not what you need.
Well, the cherry on the cake is the hood lock. It is 100% damaged. The part is cheap, but don't skimp on replacement. This will save a lot of money in the further operation of the car.
About parts replacement: I see broken core support in the photo. Be sure - everything that is located before core support has become unusable and must be replaced.
The core support itself is subject to replacement or repair as stated above. In my experience, core support can be repaired very well and is well worth it the metal there is quite thick and durable. But if you are inclined to replace - it is easy and not expensive to buy, there is a rockauto. Do not forget to paint later.
Step back from the core support ten centimeters into the engine compartment. There is destruction there too. Careful inspection, you will save something, but something will have to be replaced. The real sadness is the fact that there are really expensive parts in this area. Alternator, air conditioning pump, etc. In addition, a glance at the side members - it is unlikely that they were damaged, but it is worth looking closely, the curved body is not what you need.
Well, the cherry on the cake is the hood lock. It is 100% damaged. The part is cheap, but don't skimp on replacement. This will save a lot of money in the further operation of the car.
From my inspection I just see those lines, the radiator, ac condenser, and radiator fan as being the damaged part. I think I just got luck that nothing else was hit. Well there was the intake manifold but some superglue seemed to fix that right up and if it breaks I'll just replace that. The front part of the core support isn't the only casualty- ill send some more pics. The metal part of the core support that drops down vertically from the top of the support on the sides got pushed in a bit on both sides. That part seems kinda hard to fix though and I'm not sure it's worth it. I think the bumper and lights will still go on, so I don't think I need to.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-07-2020
Posts: 20
From: Long Beach CA
Update:
I replaced the transmission oil cooler lines and ac line today, installed the new radiator, fan, and ac cooler as well as the front side panels of the car and took out the headlight. I would have been all done except turns out I got the wrong headlight from the junkyard so I'll be going back tomorrow and hopefully wrapping it up after that. I decided to just leave the core support as is without a hood latch and form a creative zip tie solution from the grill to the bumper. I'll send pictures of it when I'm done if anyone wants to see.
I am curious though, how do I add additional transmission oil since whatever was in those cooler lines and was in the cooler itself has leaked out?
I replaced the transmission oil cooler lines and ac line today, installed the new radiator, fan, and ac cooler as well as the front side panels of the car and took out the headlight. I would have been all done except turns out I got the wrong headlight from the junkyard so I'll be going back tomorrow and hopefully wrapping it up after that. I decided to just leave the core support as is without a hood latch and form a creative zip tie solution from the grill to the bumper. I'll send pictures of it when I'm done if anyone wants to see.
I am curious though, how do I add additional transmission oil since whatever was in those cooler lines and was in the cooler itself has leaked out?
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
A ziptie to hold the hood shut? When that ziptie fails, it's going to be a bad day for you. If it happens at speed, you may not be the only one who dies.
And I thought the superglue was a bad idea, this is way worse. If you can't afford to fix this properly, then you should park it.
And I thought the superglue was a bad idea, this is way worse. If you can't afford to fix this properly, then you should park it.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-22-2010
Posts: 2,108
From: Russia Ekaterinburg
x2
Take the advice of the guys.
Do not trust? Conduct an experiment: put your hand in an open window with an open palm at a speed of 60 mph - you will feel strong air resistance, it will be difficult for you to keep your hand straight. At 90 mph, this is not possible at all, even if you shade your hand forward.
The exact same force is acting on your hood. Yes, it is made of solid metal, but its area is several tens of times larger than your palm.
Without the hood lock: your hood will be uprooted and it will kill you, or the passenger, or an accidental victim from behind, or all three at once. Even a poorly adjusted lock can lead to tragedy. You've seen bonnet locks on race cars, haven't you? This is specifically to prevent trouble.
Leaving "core support" as it is now is not recommended either. Radiators are attached to the core support, they will be located crookedly. This means increased vibration when driving. the area of the radiators is large and the weight is also significant. Thus, after 3 - 4 months the core support metall will start to break, communication lines may come off. You risk overheating the engine from loss of coolant, kill the transmission from loss of transmission fluid.
I understand that your decisions are dictated by severe necessity. We are all going through difficult times and have our own reasons.
What can be done in this situation:
Get a good steel wire (not electrical wire, not aluminum cable, not nylon rope, but steel wire). Pass it through the hood loop with one end, wrap it around the front bumper reinforcement with the other end. Twist both ends tightly so that the edge of the hood is pressed firmly against the bumper and the hood has no up / down play. Use a screwdriver For twisting, but do not scratch the paint.
The strength of the steel wire will be close to the strength of the steel lock, although not equal to it. You will get a couple of months of safe driving. During this time, you will find a way to bring the car back to its original condition. Of course, uncomfortable opening the hood, but you don't go there every day. Before securing the bonnet with wire, check all fluids and fill the washer reservoir.
Duplicate the first wire loop with a second loop, but less dense. If the first hinge breaks, the hood won't hit you right away and you will have plenty of time to stop. Twisting the remaining second wire loop more tightly, you can continue driving to the repair site. Do not fix the hinges on the radiator grill - this is a weak plastic, will not last long.
Take the advice of the guys.
Do not trust? Conduct an experiment: put your hand in an open window with an open palm at a speed of 60 mph - you will feel strong air resistance, it will be difficult for you to keep your hand straight. At 90 mph, this is not possible at all, even if you shade your hand forward.
The exact same force is acting on your hood. Yes, it is made of solid metal, but its area is several tens of times larger than your palm.
Without the hood lock: your hood will be uprooted and it will kill you, or the passenger, or an accidental victim from behind, or all three at once. Even a poorly adjusted lock can lead to tragedy. You've seen bonnet locks on race cars, haven't you? This is specifically to prevent trouble.
Leaving "core support" as it is now is not recommended either. Radiators are attached to the core support, they will be located crookedly. This means increased vibration when driving. the area of the radiators is large and the weight is also significant. Thus, after 3 - 4 months the core support metall will start to break, communication lines may come off. You risk overheating the engine from loss of coolant, kill the transmission from loss of transmission fluid.
I understand that your decisions are dictated by severe necessity. We are all going through difficult times and have our own reasons.
What can be done in this situation:
Get a good steel wire (not electrical wire, not aluminum cable, not nylon rope, but steel wire). Pass it through the hood loop with one end, wrap it around the front bumper reinforcement with the other end. Twist both ends tightly so that the edge of the hood is pressed firmly against the bumper and the hood has no up / down play. Use a screwdriver For twisting, but do not scratch the paint.
The strength of the steel wire will be close to the strength of the steel lock, although not equal to it. You will get a couple of months of safe driving. During this time, you will find a way to bring the car back to its original condition. Of course, uncomfortable opening the hood, but you don't go there every day. Before securing the bonnet with wire, check all fluids and fill the washer reservoir.
Duplicate the first wire loop with a second loop, but less dense. If the first hinge breaks, the hood won't hit you right away and you will have plenty of time to stop. Twisting the remaining second wire loop more tightly, you can continue driving to the repair site. Do not fix the hinges on the radiator grill - this is a weak plastic, will not last long.
Last edited by geg; Oct 12, 2020 at 09:44 PM.
