Do you feel the rattle in the steering wheel ?
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Originally Posted by Silverfox
(Post 891417)
About the Brakes ..... Are you keeping the Rear brakes manually adjusted ??
It is Very Important. When they are properly adjusted you should get 3-4 clicks on the emergency brake handle when it is set. If it is more then that you need to adjust the E. brake cable until you get it to 3-4 clicks. With that Mileage and the probability you have had them surfaced more then once, I would definitely consider New Rotors and Front Pads. Personally I like the Stock GM OEM Pads #19157892 Rock Auto and Raybestos Premium Rotors. Silverfox |
The front brake problem is more likely the lca bushings are shot!
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ol-arms-44378/ And the upper motor mount . https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...problem-60373/ drilled and slotted rotors look cool but won’t fix the issue, swap over to larger diameter SS non Brembo rotors https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/ best update ever! And adjust those rear drums , every oil change |
The reason your rotors "warp" is the rear brakes are not doing their work (in the physics sense).
More often than not what people perceive as rotor warp is actually LCA bushings. |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 891424)
The reason your rotors "warp" is the rear brakes are not doing their work (in the physics sense).
More often than not what people perceive as rotor warp is actually LCA bushings. |
Lots of good info coming in. Thanks guys! SS Rotors. Check. I don't care about the looks as much as I do drivability and performance. Upper motor mount check! I'll get new rear brakes...should I replace the drums or just the shoes?
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At that age get this kit from RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...oe+kit,1001602 this way you have everything brand new we do have a discount from our friends at RockAuto https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/supp...-2020-a-61707/ the upper engine mount is easy to check, look through the oblong hole in the passenger side front wheel well , see the bolt head in there, it for the serpentine belt tensioner, if you see that in the centre of the hole the mount if ok, if it’s down low in the hole , and you could not put a socket on an extension to that bolt , the compound in the mount has deteriorated enough that it done, replace that mount |
Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR
(Post 891420)
Do you feel the rattle in the steering wheel ?
Yes and no. I hear it coming from somewhere under the dash in the area of the column. My wheel doesn't shake back and forth. But a slight vibration resonates in the steering wheel. Slight but noticeable EDIT! OK. I took it out for a ride. I love being retired. LOL. The wheel DOES shake back and forth when braking at 35 and up It doesn't matter if I'm straight or on a curve. The wheel still pulses. The only oddity is when I brake straight I get the wheel pulse and rattle noise from column area. When I brake on a curve I get only wheel pulse only. No rattle noise. |
These lca rear bushings weren’t very old, GM parts . I replaced them with a Moog problem solver bushings
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ea7d5d6e6.jpeg One more time for Donbrew |
Originally Posted by Flyge Francis Mark
(Post 891428)
Do I "FEEL" the rattling in the steering wheel?
Yes and no. I hear it coming from somewhere under the dash in the area of the column. My wheel doesn't shake back and forth. But a slight vibration resonates in the steering wheel. Slight but noticeable EDIT! OK. I took it out for a ride. I love being retired. LOL. The wheel DOES shake back and forth when braking at 35 and up It doesn't matter if I'm straight or on a curve. The wheel still pulses. The only oddity is when I brake straight I get the wheel pulse and rattle noise from column area. When I brake on a curve I get only wheel pulse only. No rattle noise. I am having the exact same issue. New LCA's, new tires, brakes are good. I am going to look into replacing the steering shaft. |
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