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Rear drum brake repair tutorial

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #11  
flo's Avatar
flo
 
Joined: 06-25-2008
Posts: 2
From: Montreal, Canada
[QUOTE=NxlKing2304;369268]Mike,

This is actually pretty simple to do. Take off the rear wheel. ONce rear wheel is off you take the drum off. Take the drum to the nearest dealer, or repair shop to have resurfaced if it can be. This will ensure even wear on the shoes.

Hi .
It might sound stupid, but how exactly remove the drum?
I have a noise on the rear right wheel while breaking and I looked to remove the drum to check the shoes ( they are probably worn) and I couldn't figure out how; usualy there is a center cap and a nut under ...
Any suggestion will be highly appreciated...
Thanks!
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 04:07 AM
  #12  
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Joined: 06-04-2008
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From: Toledo, OH
take the wheel off theres a weird washer or two on one or two studs, remove them. pull the drum off, done
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 06:21 AM
  #13  
DreamHHR's Avatar
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Joined: 02-14-2007
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From: Luskville, QC, Canada
Originally Posted by masterchief1112
take the wheel off theres a weird washer or two on one or two studs, remove them. pull the drum off, done
I had to use a 3 jaw puller to get mine off; they were stuck there pretty bad. One drum even sprung out a couple of feet when it finally let go.

Yves
Old Nov 16, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #14  
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Joined: 11-01-2011
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From: LONG ISLAND NEW YORK
The drum tends to rust to the center shaft, I used penetrating oil to break the rust. I have used a torch to heat the drum to free it. Usually hitting it with hammer after heating will free it.
I found the v shaped shoe retainer shoe to be the biggest problem. I put the shoe with the e brake attachment on first then pulled the clip outward and slipped the shoe other shoe in.
Old Nov 16, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #15  
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Joined: 01-23-2009
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This is an old dead thread, but.... I too have something to add.

They changed the hold down and adjuster system in 2009 or 2010 to the same sort American cars have had for ages. But they also created a loose "interference" fit for the drum/hub connection.

I actually dented my drums with my 3 LB sledge hammer trying to get them off. Then I stuck a prybar between the backing plate and the drum while banging and came off gradually. Be careful though there is a backing plate backing plate that you can bend by accident.

This applies to 2011 models for sure, I think 2010, maybe 2009.

Oh, and the adjuster turns in the opposite direction.
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #16  
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Joined: 01-09-2007
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From: SE USA
"The drum tends to rust to the center shaft, I used penetrating oil to break the rust."

On mine after cleaning up the hub-snout, I wiped it with a hi-temp grease, very lightly..

Has never rusted/corroded again on my 2008....
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 09:21 PM
  #17  
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Joined: 12-10-2013
Posts: 5
From: Tennessee
tried to get rear drums off with hammer and pen titration oil..no luck so far... really stuck
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 08:02 AM
  #18  
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Joined: 12-24-2007
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From: Seville. OH
Originally Posted by pjohnmiller
tried to get rear drums off with hammer and pen titration oil..no luck so far... really stuck
If the drums wiggle on the the hubs then you may be stuck on the brake shoes. You may have to back the adjusters off to get the drums off.
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 08:26 AM
  #19  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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Joined: 12-06-2009
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From: Alabama
If the drum is stuck at the hub, there will be no movement there when trying to take off the drum.
If only the shoes are holding it, there will be a little give and you should be able to see the hub is free.

Over the years I've had to use a BFM(Big Frigging rubber Mallet) on many different types of drums. It's not just a HHR thing.
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #20  
hurst2001's Avatar
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Joined: 09-03-2006
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From: chicago
Their is a good video on youtube how to do rear drum brakes just type in hhr rear brakes and you will find it hands on



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