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The diagram is quite blurry so it is possible I've misread part of it. However it appears that the bar/cathode of the diode (negative) is on the bottom making the bottom line ground (it looks like it might be grounded under the driver's seat?). I most definitely measured +12V on the dark blue wire. I do appreciate the suggestion and please point out if I am still reading it wrong.
e99
You lost me.
Why are you calling a diode an LED ? LED (light emitting diode).That diode is to stop back feed of a circuit, ground or voltage . It's just a diode in the circuit
This is the symbol of an LED in a circuit. http://www.resistorguide.com/applica...ed/led_symbol/
Thanks
Last edited by Cat Man HHR; Mar 21, 2019 at 04:39 PM.
My fault on the LED, it looks like arrows not +/- to my old eyes.
You need to think digital they are signals not 12V+ and ground.
Just think of the diode as a blank spot, then you have a + bus and a - bus.
I will correct myself the + to the rear switches comes from the lock out sw.
The Up and Down signals are carried on PPL/PPLWHT and DKGRN/LTGRN.
When the rear switches are "idle" both poles are ground; when the DN button is active Post A is 12V and Post B is ground; and Vice versa when UP.
If the window does work from the master switch but not from the door switch the door switch is the problem. If the window does not work from either the master is at fault (i.e. not connecting to ground when idle)
If the PPL or LTGRN wire shows no ground the problem is the master switch.
If the electricals check out OK, be sure to check the weatherstripping around the window. I had the opposite problem on my Olds Intrigue years ago. Window wouldn't move. It was stuck in place because I never used it, and I live in the Garden of Pollen and Sap. I doubt this is your issue, but I wasted time on all that electrical testing on it, only to find too much sap and crap was the problem.
Donbrew - no worries, you have it right now. As you said, in idle state the LT GRN (C) and PPL (H) wires supply ground from the front switch to the rear switch. Since my purple wire has an intermittent connection, I was not getting the ground required to roll the window up. The only thing that still has me confused is why it didn't work when I directly connected chassy ground to the motor instead of the purple wire. I was ready to blame the motor assembly for that reason, but luckily I tried using the LT GRN ground before I went and bought a motor. Based on the diagram, it looks like there might be a grounding bolt under the driver's seat (bottom right of the schematic). We are in Buffalo so I wonder if something got corroded in that area. I'll have to investigate this further in the summer when I run a new purple wire.
That ground would be for all windows.
more likely the master switch is faulty.
The diode protects the circuit in case the driver and the rear seat passenger try to operate the window at the same time.
Send a PM to hellshotrod; he has a flock of HHRs he is parting out.
I actually did go and get a master switch from the junkyard, but the problem remained. It was then that I did some more probing and realized that it was indeed just the purple wire interconnecting the front and rear switches.
Anyways, our issue is solved, it's more of a curiosity thing at this point. Thanks to everyone on this forum and whoever originally posted the wiring diagram. It would have been much more difficult to diagnose without these resources.
