I've searched the TSB and remote start threads and didn't see any with this problem. My 2006 HHR is normally parked in the garage at home so I don't use the remote start. When I'm on the road at a motel, I like to start the car when it's cold out so the windows don't fog up when I get in it. It starts fine if the temperature is above 20 degrees but when it's under 20 degrees, it doesn't start. The lights flash and a puff of exhaust comes out but it doesn't keep running. I try a second start with the same result so I have to go out and start it with the key.

I left the car out last night and tried it today standing next to it. It was 15 degrees out. It started, ran for a couple of seconds and died. I tried it again with the same result. I'm wondering if the program doesn't allow enough time for the oil pressure to build up. When I start it with the key, it takes about 3 seconds for the oil pressure to show on the gauge. I use synthetic 5W-30 oil so it shouldn't be too thick.

The only times I use remote start are when its cold out to warm up the car, or if it's hot out and I want to cool the interior. When it's hot out, the car won't start remotely with the air conditioner on. Even with the key, the engine cranks for a long time if its warm and the ac is on. Turn the ac off and it starts but that defeats the purpose of the remote start.

This car has done this since it was new. The dealer had it and claimed it started for them. When I picked it up I tried the remote start and it wouldn't keep running. I got the service manager out to try it and it did the same for him. They kept it overnight and were supposed to check it first thing in the morning as it was supposed to be around 10 degrees that night. The late shift brought it inside as it was supposed to be worked on first thing in the morning so it was warm and started. That was the last cold spell that year and I didn't take it back. I thought about borrowing a refrigerated trailer to put it in but I didn't.

 

The 06 I had exhibited this problem. They reprogrammed the computer based on a TSB and it worked fine until it was traded in on my SS.

 

Thanks for the information. I figured they must have a fix for it.

 

I also think - you need to reprogram the ECM. What you describe is not unlike the "problem of oil" or "injector problem". Perhaps the blame for air temperature sensor.
If you have a few extra twenties - replace the sensor and reprogram the brain. Problem gone - well, the problem will not disappear - you can assume that two possible reasons you excluded and close to a decision.

 

There is also a hood sensor that makes sure the hood is closed before starting with the remote. A problem with that circuit can cause your symptoms. Chances are it is a reflash problem though as the others have said. I had the same thing after jumpstarting once, the tire pressure sensors didnt work either.

 

While standing next to the vehicle, push and hold the lock and unlock buttons at the same time. The remote may resync itself.

 

If it was a hood switch, it shouldn't crank. This cranks, starts and dies when it's cold and won't crank long enough to start when it's hot and the AC is on.
I tried the re-sync today. Lows will be in the upper 20s or low 30s so I won't get to try it for a few days.

 

I stopped at my local dealer today to see if they could find anything about this problem. They say that they have to replicate the problem before they can look for a solution to it. I'll have to do some more research on it until it gets colder out.

 

I was talking to a guy who owns a repair shop and he had a customer with the same problem in a Cobalt. He subscribes to a network of mechanics who report problems and solutions. Another subscriber had found a TSB on it. It only affected early 2006 vehicles. The problem is caused by not allowing enough time for oil pressure to build up and allowing the air conditioning compressor clutch to turn on immediately. The fix was a program update to allow longer cranking time, longer allowance for oil pressure to build up and a delay after start up before the A C clutch is energized.

He thought that the fix is part of GMs updates that dealers install each time a vehicle is in for service. Guess I'd have to ask Chevy Manager about that. When they had it in in 2008, they should have installed those.