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Rusted Fuel lines

Old 03-29-2016, 01:58 AM
  #11  
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The fuel line is 3/8" the return line is 1/4" When mine rusted out I used fuel injection rated hose to replace the rusted bit. If you use the rubber hose be sure to get fuel injection rated hose clamps. The regular screw clamps even if they are stainless steel will fail because the hose is under pressure.
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Clevelandhhrss
Anyone have information about replacement parts being available. Or if there is an upgrade version of these line?
I drive by the Salt Mine (under the lake) daily, so I know the enemy well.
843de reported that he heard from reliable sources new upgraded parts will be available soon.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:18 AM
  #13  
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It appears I now have the dreaded rusty fuel line leak and plan to replace the entire line assuming I can find replacement. After scanning all the discussions on fixing the problem, I haven't seen anybody mention how difficult it is or is not to replace the line. I assume the line has the typical high-pressure fitting on each end, but I'm more concerned about access to those fittings and how the line snakes its way from the tank to the engine. Anybody?
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:58 AM
  #14  
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Mitchell seems to think it is so generic that they don't even mention it.
Same with AllData.

Or, maybe they just hid it better than other things.
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:26 PM
  #15  
 
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Can anyone here tell me how long it takes to replace fuel line? I have a 2009 hhr ss.
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:03 PM
  #16  
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Not a tough job. Just tedious. I took me longer to cut out the old than connecting the new on my 2009 SS. There were a few things I encountered with the replacement lines and instructions:

- It would be better if the couplers on the fuel line and the vapor return line were offset more than they are. They tend to interfere with each other and make it difficult to secure to the brackets and tighten, especially the last section at the rear of the car where the lines wrap around the exhaust pipe.
- The original nylon vapor return line needs to be cut near where it's bonded to the steel line, not near the connector on top of the engine.
- The braided high-pressure fuel line is a little too long. It works, but I had to loop it around to connect.

FWIW, Here are photos of the original lines I cut out and the replacement lines.

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Old 01-20-2018, 03:33 PM
  #17  
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Just to correct terminology: The fuel system is return less. The other line is EVAP.

The fuel pressure is dynamically regulated according to demand.
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Old 01-23-2018, 01:49 PM
  #18  
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If your fuel lines rusted, report it here;
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by db2006
If your fuel lines rusted, report it here;
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
Why? It is normal wear and tear. We are not talking about manufacturing defects. Has anyone been injured? Is it a pervasive safety issue caused by manufacturing errors?

Metal exposed to the chemicals that some states use on roadways in the winter tends to corrode. Probably get more done by suing your state highway department, or whoever authorizes the chemicals on the roadways. I know my state switched chemicals for that reason.

If it makes you happy then do it.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:50 PM
  #20  
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Up here rusty fuel and brake lines are due to the road salt in winter, it’s the owners responsibility to address that issue by rustproofing the car.
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