Service ESC + Service Traction + lock icon appearing on dashboard
it still remain to be an issue. I checked every wires as possible
Now a new symptom appear along with all those issue ..
We drive to someplace like a local store close by then turn off the engine. The starter will not turn at all if we try to start the car right after turning it off. We have to wait at least 20 minutes or so before it will start again for us.
Many of the search result I been finding that it point to Body Control Module which is in the console of the HHR but require programming if replaced ,,,
I am wondering if I was to get one from the junk yard from same year HHR .. will it still require reprogramming? I don't care about key fob or onStar ...
we just wanted a car that run without dashboard going crazy ...
Now a new symptom appear along with all those issue ..
We drive to someplace like a local store close by then turn off the engine. The starter will not turn at all if we try to start the car right after turning it off. We have to wait at least 20 minutes or so before it will start again for us.
Many of the search result I been finding that it point to Body Control Module which is in the console of the HHR but require programming if replaced ,,,
I am wondering if I was to get one from the junk yard from same year HHR .. will it still require reprogramming? I don't care about key fob or onStar ...
we just wanted a car that run without dashboard going crazy ...
Did the recalls get done? https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/
Did the recalls get done? https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/
Currently, there are no recalls or programs associated with your 2008 Chevrolet HHR
VIN: 3GNDA53PX8S591261
After doing some more Googling today on this .. I found few more possible places to look for that could be causing my issue
c/p from several different websites on the net
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I have been fighting this issue but I know what the actual problem is.... go under the driver side of the dash and follow the wiring coming from the obd2 port, you will find a flaw in the way Chevrolet routed the wiring. There will be a spot where a sharp edge has rubbed through a wire. And that's what is causing all the crazy intermittent problems such as crazy gauges, not starting, and hard transmission shifts. It's a pink wire I believe. Tape the wires up and reroute away from the sharp edge and done.
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Okay, I fixed it. Friday I got out the Wiring Diagram & narrowed it down to the Body Control Module or the Vehicle Speed Sensor & all Power/Grounds wire going to each of those components. The culprit - both wires completely stretched & broken going to the Speed Sensor - wire running up from the speed sensor between the engine & firewall. How did this happen? Not enough slack between the mid clamp and the clamp holding the wires near the Speed Sensor. Found the problem withing 5 minutes of going underneath the car, spliced in 2 extra inches of wiring, and car is now perfectly normal!
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transmission control module had to be replaced
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I know what causes this, I fixed my 2010 Cobalt, it was doing the clicking noise by the shifter also. There is ground on the transmission, a big bolt that gets gummed up. Spray cleaner and put dialectic grease on it to keep the connection clean. I found the solution on a Cobalt forum. The bad ground is causing the short.
c/p from several different websites on the net
-------------------
I have been fighting this issue but I know what the actual problem is.... go under the driver side of the dash and follow the wiring coming from the obd2 port, you will find a flaw in the way Chevrolet routed the wiring. There will be a spot where a sharp edge has rubbed through a wire. And that's what is causing all the crazy intermittent problems such as crazy gauges, not starting, and hard transmission shifts. It's a pink wire I believe. Tape the wires up and reroute away from the sharp edge and done.
--------------
Okay, I fixed it. Friday I got out the Wiring Diagram & narrowed it down to the Body Control Module or the Vehicle Speed Sensor & all Power/Grounds wire going to each of those components. The culprit - both wires completely stretched & broken going to the Speed Sensor - wire running up from the speed sensor between the engine & firewall. How did this happen? Not enough slack between the mid clamp and the clamp holding the wires near the Speed Sensor. Found the problem withing 5 minutes of going underneath the car, spliced in 2 extra inches of wiring, and car is now perfectly normal!
----------------
transmission control module had to be replaced
--------------------
I know what causes this, I fixed my 2010 Cobalt, it was doing the clicking noise by the shifter also. There is ground on the transmission, a big bolt that gets gummed up. Spray cleaner and put dialectic grease on it to keep the connection clean. I found the solution on a Cobalt forum. The bad ground is causing the short.
The ground on the transmission was the first batch of suggestions. Don't know what the TCM has to do with anything. The wheel speed sensors have nothing to do with the clicking or the security light.
it is not fixed
sorry that message in my previous post was a copy and paste from another posters on othe message board what they did to fix it.
I check all those on my hhr and it doesn’t seem to be the issue that I am having nor it does not fix my issue
today I took off all connectors from BCM and use electronics cleaner but it still didn’t fix it
about the transmission ground. Can you explain little more where that is at? On firewall behind fuse right?
thank you. I do wish it is fixed :/
sorry that message in my previous post was a copy and paste from another posters on othe message board what they did to fix it.
I check all those on my hhr and it doesn’t seem to be the issue that I am having nor it does not fix my issue
today I took off all connectors from BCM and use electronics cleaner but it still didn’t fix it
about the transmission ground. Can you explain little more where that is at? On firewall behind fuse right?
thank you. I do wish it is fixed :/


