Take a look at my fuel pressure test?
08-29-2018, 05:28 PM
#1
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Join Date: 08-29-2018
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 43
Take a look at my fuel pressure test?
CAR: 2008 Chevy HHR LT 2.4L 150k mi
PROBLEM: Lately my car has been taking longer and longer every morning to turn over, with a new symptom of rough idle for about 45 seconds after startup. Through the day, if it has only sat about an hour or so, it starts right up and idles smooth right away. Turning to on or "on off on off" before run doesn't seem to help... at all... Runs and idles good otherwise.
No engine codes, ran seafoam before installing new spark plugs (iridium delcos)) just 10k ago so I also have clean injectors, always run octane 91, haven't cleaned the MAF yet. My battery tested good and my fuel pressure test is below. (Not good!) My question is, does this sound like my fuel pump (dreading), or does this seem like an injector problem? Is there anything left to check?
One issue I've been considering was my wheels were just stolen (I have lug locks now...) and the thief gave me 2 rocks in the front to hold my car up and the rear was on the ground... Could that damage anything fuel system related??
Here is a link to a 1:10 clip of my fuel pressure test first thing this morning. Watch beginning then skip to 50 seconds in.
Summary:
-I put my key in ("off"), pressure 0. (Should it even be 0...)
-Turned to "on," 20 psi.
-Turned to "run," approximately 58 psi.
-Skip to 50 seconds in, (when engine was smooth, quiet, and no longer rough idling), I turned key back to "on," approximately 56 psi.
-Turned key to "off," pressure began dropping not drastically but visibly (watch the needle go from 56 to 55).
I didn't know at the time to check if it drops more than the recommended 8 psi per 5 mins
should I try that?
So what do you think? Any advice is appreciated.
PROBLEM: Lately my car has been taking longer and longer every morning to turn over, with a new symptom of rough idle for about 45 seconds after startup. Through the day, if it has only sat about an hour or so, it starts right up and idles smooth right away. Turning to on or "on off on off" before run doesn't seem to help... at all... Runs and idles good otherwise.
No engine codes, ran seafoam before installing new spark plugs (iridium delcos)) just 10k ago so I also have clean injectors, always run octane 91, haven't cleaned the MAF yet. My battery tested good and my fuel pressure test is below. (Not good!) My question is, does this sound like my fuel pump (dreading), or does this seem like an injector problem? Is there anything left to check?
One issue I've been considering was my wheels were just stolen (I have lug locks now...) and the thief gave me 2 rocks in the front to hold my car up and the rear was on the ground... Could that damage anything fuel system related??
Here is a link to a 1:10 clip of my fuel pressure test first thing this morning. Watch beginning then skip to 50 seconds in.
Summary:
-I put my key in ("off"), pressure 0. (Should it even be 0...)
-Turned to "on," 20 psi.
-Turned to "run," approximately 58 psi.
-Skip to 50 seconds in, (when engine was smooth, quiet, and no longer rough idling), I turned key back to "on," approximately 56 psi.
-Turned key to "off," pressure began dropping not drastically but visibly (watch the needle go from 56 to 55).
I didn't know at the time to check if it drops more than the recommended 8 psi per 5 mins
should I try that?So what do you think? Any advice is appreciated.
Last edited by 11_madi_11; 09-04-2018 at 08:39 AM. Reason: Wrong engine size/wrong manufacture date
08-29-2018, 05:48 PM
#2
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
If it is a LT it is NOT 2.0L Turbo! Not even special order! Somebody sold you a bill of goods.
Since the fuel rail pressure is 58 PSI you have either a 2.2L or a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine.
The important thing to know is how much does the PSI drop in 15 minutes.
If the USA includes an area that uses lots of salt on the roads I would look for a leak in the vapor line next to the fuel line.
Look at position 5-6 in your VIN A7 or A6 indicates an SS (2.0 turbo).
Since the fuel rail pressure is 58 PSI you have either a 2.2L or a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine.
The important thing to know is how much does the PSI drop in 15 minutes.
If the USA includes an area that uses lots of salt on the roads I would look for a leak in the vapor line next to the fuel line.
Look at position 5-6 in your VIN A7 or A6 indicates an SS (2.0 turbo).
08-29-2018, 05:59 PM
#3
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Join Date: 08-29-2018
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 43
If it is a LT it is NOT 2.0L Turbo! Not even special order! Somebody sold you a bill of goods.
Since the fuel rail pressure is 58 PSI you have either a 2.2L or a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine.
The important thing to know is how much does the PSI drop in 15 minutes.
If the USA includes an area that uses lots of salt on the roads I would look for a leak in the vapor line next to the fuel line.
Since the fuel rail pressure is 58 PSI you have either a 2.2L or a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine.
The important thing to know is how much does the PSI drop in 15 minutes.
If the USA includes an area that uses lots of salt on the roads I would look for a leak in the vapor line next to the fuel line.
I will go tomorrow morning and get the gauge back to test that! Thank you :)
So how much "should" it drop in 15 minutes?
08-29-2018, 06:25 PM
#4
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
NOT a Turbo, unless you added it in your garage. Could not come from the factory. The rail pressure (engine on) on a turbo is in the 600-1000 PSI. Somebody put labels on the car, there is no engine size badge. no badges at all on the hood.
One telling point is that the SS with turbo has no "horns" on the bumper to make room for the intercooler in front and below the radiator and AC .
Start engine, stop engine, pressure should read 50-60 PSI, if it drops more than 5 PSI in 1 minute you need a new pump. Should never be zero.
If you put plugs for a turbo that may be the prob and you are wasting your money on 91 octane.
One telling point is that the SS with turbo has no "horns" on the bumper to make room for the intercooler in front and below the radiator and AC .
Start engine, stop engine, pressure should read 50-60 PSI, if it drops more than 5 PSI in 1 minute you need a new pump. Should never be zero.
If you put plugs for a turbo that may be the prob and you are wasting your money on 91 octane.
08-29-2018, 07:44 PM
#5
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Join Date: 08-29-2018
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 43
Thank you kindly, I edited turbo out of my engine specs as well.
You may be right about some things, but most cars have an emissions sticker right on the inside of the hood, which does state the engine size. The sticker is required in some states, and the sticker comes factory on new vehicles now. But sure I admit it's possible the previous owner (my grandma) bought a false sticker and put it on there for her own satisfaction.
(Edit: In the US, anyway. EPA standards.)
91 v. Low grade is a popular argument, but I've always followed the owner's manual which "recommends" a higher octane for the larger engine. The research has been done, and the verdict is higher octane saves money for 2.4L since it has such better gas mileage. :)
I will pull a plug tomorrow and see what I put in there... It would be a dumb mistake but definitely the cheapest fix!
You may be right about some things, but most cars have an emissions sticker right on the inside of the hood, which does state the engine size. The sticker is required in some states, and the sticker comes factory on new vehicles now. But sure I admit it's possible the previous owner (my grandma) bought a false sticker and put it on there for her own satisfaction.
(Edit: In the US, anyway. EPA standards.)
91 v. Low grade is a popular argument, but I've always followed the owner's manual which "recommends" a higher octane for the larger engine. The research has been done, and the verdict is higher octane saves money for 2.4L since it has such better gas mileage. :)
I will pull a plug tomorrow and see what I put in there... It would be a dumb mistake but definitely the cheapest fix!
08-29-2018, 08:02 PM
#6
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,089
"CAR: 2008 Chevy HHR LT (but it was built in 2009 special order with some 2009 parts). 2.4L 150k mi"
Uh...No...You can't get a 2008 built in 2009 with "some" 2009 parts. No way. No how.
Until you can clarify exactly what kind of car, model and engine we're discussing, it would be useless to even guess.
Uh...No...You can't get a 2008 built in 2009 with "some" 2009 parts. No way. No how.
Until you can clarify exactly what kind of car, model and engine we're discussing, it would be useless to even guess.
08-29-2018, 09:06 PM
#8
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,671
Me too.
If you really wanted to know something about your vehicle you could go to https://gsi-cs.ext.gm.com/dealerworl...-12%20R1.6.pdf and look under Light Duty Trucks. After that you should research about the value of using 91 octane in an engine that has 89 octane recommended (2.4L is supposed to run on 89).
You do not get your money worth, maybe a couple of MPG better but the cost over rides that. Wasting your money.
I am guessing that this vehicle is in California and has a C.A.R.B. sticker under the hood. That is not a requirement in the other 49 states. So I guess some states is actually 1 state.
The correct plugs are ACDelco 41-103. Any other brand or part number can cause trouble.
If you really wanted to know something about your vehicle you could go to https://gsi-cs.ext.gm.com/dealerworl...-12%20R1.6.pdf and look under Light Duty Trucks. After that you should research about the value of using 91 octane in an engine that has 89 octane recommended (2.4L is supposed to run on 89).
You do not get your money worth, maybe a couple of MPG better but the cost over rides that. Wasting your money.
I am guessing that this vehicle is in California and has a C.A.R.B. sticker under the hood. That is not a requirement in the other 49 states. So I guess some states is actually 1 state.
The correct plugs are ACDelco 41-103. Any other brand or part number can cause trouble.
08-31-2018, 09:28 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-29-2018
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 43
"CAR: 2008 Chevy HHR LT (but it was built in 2009 special order with some 2009 parts). 2.4L 150k mi"
Uh...No...You can't get a 2008 built in 2009 with "some" 2009 parts. No way. No how.
Until you can clarify exactly what kind of car, model and engine we're discussing, it would be useless to even guess.
Uh...No...You can't get a 2008 built in 2009 with "some" 2009 parts. No way. No how.
Until you can clarify exactly what kind of car, model and engine we're discussing, it would be useless to even guess.
The part that got me curious about it all was I went to update my timing chain from the 2008 flat bolt to the newer and more reliable 2009 tensioner, but the timing chain tensioner bolt was already the nubbly one, which was something GM didn't improve until 2009. My grandma always took it to the dealer for everything and there is no record of the tensioner being replaced or anything being done to the timing chain or case at all.
Now, if the dealer did do all this aftermarket, why did they do it for free with no record at all??
Just to clarify with everybody, we've established that I definitely own a 2008 Chevy HHR LT 2.4L
08-31-2018, 09:48 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-29-2018
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 43
Me too.
If you really wanted to know something about your vehicle you could go to https://gsi-cs.ext.gm.com/dealerworl...-12%20R1.6.pdf and look under Light Duty Trucks. After that you should research about the value of using 91 octane in an engine that has 89 octane recommended (2.4L is supposed to run on 89).
If you really wanted to know something about your vehicle you could go to https://gsi-cs.ext.gm.com/dealerworl...-12%20R1.6.pdf and look under Light Duty Trucks. After that you should research about the value of using 91 octane in an engine that has 89 octane recommended (2.4L is supposed to run on 89).
Some of the 16 other states that have adopted the CA emissions code are New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Maine, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Pennsylvania, Vermont, New Mexico, Oregon, Washington, Maryland, Florida.