temp gauge/DIC not working
#1
temp gauge/DIC not working
Of course ths happens on the hottest day of the week. The AC quit working, then I notice that the coolant gauge is not working nor is the DIC indicator (just blanks). I checked the coolant level and there was about 1/3 full in the bottle so I added some water to get me home. This did not help. Any one have an idea what’s up? Cooling fans did not come on so I am guessing that the engine is not overheating.
#4
X3. If you thermostat is not working properly it will set a code in the system.
When a coolant code is set the PCM shuts down the a/c and the coolant display and gauge will not read.
Changing the thermostat and clearing the codes should bring everything back.
When a coolant code is set the PCM shuts down the a/c and the coolant display and gauge will not read.
Changing the thermostat and clearing the codes should bring everything back.
#5
sounds like the consensus is the t-stat. I'll have to give that a try. Do you think an old guy with fingers that don't work well and a bad back can do this or should I go to a mechanic?
#7
DIY job less than 1 hr. If shop wants more, then your back will get worse from carrying the $ to pay them.
#9
I'm an old guy with a bad back and I have changed the thermostat on my HHR. Hope your back gives you a good day and get'erdone.
If you have ramps put your buggy on them when you refill the cooling system, it will help to get the air out of the heater core.
If you have ramps put your buggy on them when you refill the cooling system, it will help to get the air out of the heater core.
#10
Grizzly has a good point, putting your HHR on ramps creates a temporary "high spot" in the cooling system. Because on level ground, the actual "high spot" in the cooling system is the heater core, way to go GM engineers.
It's a good idea to mark the "Full Hot" and "Full Cold" markngs on the recovery bottle/surge tank, because they are a bugger to see.
A good number of us follow sleeper's practice of carrying an extra inch or inch and a half of coolant in the bottle above the "Full Hot" line to keep the system from running low as it burps out air after being opened.
It's a good idea to mark the "Full Hot" and "Full Cold" markngs on the recovery bottle/surge tank, because they are a bugger to see.
A good number of us follow sleeper's practice of carrying an extra inch or inch and a half of coolant in the bottle above the "Full Hot" line to keep the system from running low as it burps out air after being opened.