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Throttle Body Cleaning (The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly)

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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 01:26 PM
  #11  
the_shmoo's Avatar
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I found that if you open the butterfly as you describe, then unplug the connector again it will remain open.
You can then work on it on your workbench. Worked for me. Reinstall as normal.
Old Mar 24, 2020 | 03:13 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by planetrj
This is very interesting that you said "Fully Closed with Engine Off". I noticed that it was not fully closed when I pulled the air tube before I touched it,
This type of throttle body doesn't have an idle control motor like older throttle body engines.
It's meant to have an air gap.
Here is the part used on early systems.


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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 04:25 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR
This type of throttle body doesn't have an idle control motor like older throttle body engines.
It's meant to have an air gap.
Here is the part used on early systems.
That's what i changed on my Saturn when I cleaned its TB. Exactly that part. Thank you for clarifying, because I started to believe that it was malfunctioning before I removed it. I had just noticed that the images online also has that slight angle and gap. Interestingly, the Saturn also has that 10mm diameter round hole before the butterfly which enters into the Idle Control Valve, where airflow is constant, and of course HHR doesn't have an ICV as you mentioned.
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 04:56 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by the_shmoo
I found that if you open the butterfly as you describe, then unplug the connector again it will remain open.
You can then work on it on your workbench. Worked for me. Reinstall as normal.
Great Ideas here! Had I thought to do this before I went through the removal, I would have just left it in, and I likely wouldn't have had this happen. I unplugged it, inspected the pins, and they're all in great shape, not bent. Unplugged the battery 45 minutes, plugged back in, but the P0223 code came back. The other two codes are gone. Made me remember after the replacement of the MAF and Gas Cap, I never unplugged the battery, which could be why those codes were still present. On the bright side, I found a New Bosch (OE) TB for $60 including shipping. It's definitely less $ to do that then pay more to have a mechanic just look at it. I'd rather have a new part.
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 05:33 PM
  #15  
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EVAP codes take a while to develop, be prepared. Make sure the new TB is for the right year; the electrical plug changed some time.
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 06:44 PM
  #16  
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The 2010 2.2 had GM part #12633774, the Bosch part # F00H600075 is the equivalent.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ttle+body,6472
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 04:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
The 2010 2.2 had GM part #12633774, the Bosch part # F00H600075 is the equivalent.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ttle+body,6472
Thank you! That's the one ...As I sit here, the package arrived and I opened it up with my second cuppa' coffee.


Old Mar 26, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #18  
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Awe, it’s beautiful, I love nice new parts! Now, disconnect the battery while you change out that throttle body.
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 05:25 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Awe, it’s beautiful, I love nice new parts! Now, disconnect the battery while you change out that throttle body.
ME TOO! (Obviously) lol Thanks for the battery tip. I was going to do that out of precaution, even though there wasn't any info I've seen out there to say it's necessary. I think it's just a good measure. Now, off to the ol' buggy to get'er installed. Back for results later on after I shoo some wild pigs out of my Sweet Potato patch!
Old Mar 27, 2020 | 03:09 PM
  #20  
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Installation complete and engine light + low power OFF 😁 No code for that anymore, and I consider that a very positive learning lesson that was extremely inexpensive with the benefit of a new part. 🤙🏻



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