fastsuv

One of my 06 HHRs sounds like it needs a new timing chain (chain noise).

For those who have had the timing chain replaced (along with the other parts such as sprockets, etc), how much did it cost?

I'm trying to get a rough idea how much this will cost.

Thanks

Steve

prod

I was quoted 1300. That was just the chain and guides kit.
Did you try changing the tensioner first?

Oldblue

try the tensioner first, then if the noise persists swap out the timing chain, may I suggest at risk of ridicule... don't go cheap with the E-bay kits from China, I have to change a friends 2.2 Cobalt engine tomorrow, cause his GF talked him into the savings, and now he will get to spend some serious cash for a wrecking yard engine and a new timing chain and water pump set, and pizza and beers!!

fastsuv

No I didn't try the tensioner first.

I am going to buy the new design tensioner and install it since it's so easy to do.

Steve

Oldblue

That's a great start !

fastsuv

One question on the tensioner.

I read through several old threads here on tensioner replacement. It wasn't clear if I need to remove the valve cover to "tap" the timing chain to set the tensioner. Some people said that was only needed for the old tensioner design, others said it was needed with the new tensioner.

Is there any new info on this?

Thanks
Steve

Lucky

The new tensioner has the same preset mechanism as the old one that does need to be preloaded once in stalled.

Many people have just put the new tensioner in and stated the engine which will release the preload mechanism hopefully before the chain jumps time.

Some we not so lucky and the chain jumped time which then requires some engine tare down to reset or replace the chain.

I myself would recommend removing the valve cover and releasing the preload mechanism before starting it.

When I installed mine I tried tripping the tensioner before I installed it. It did not work.

the way the ratchet inside the tensioner works it would not allow it to retract as I installed it and it made the chain way too tight.

So make sure the tensioner it fully retracted before install.

Lucky

If it was my car I would change the tensioner first before doing the complete chain. Here is a thread from the cobalt forums that explains a lot about the timing chains. I like post 130 it's a chevy tech's opinion on the tensioner.

http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-g...sioner-203071/

fastsuv

Thanks for the link, Lucky.

I am going to order the new tensioner (AC Delco) from Rock Auto, which will cost $39(shipping included) instead of $53 at the dealer.

Also, i will definitely remove the valve cover so i can wire-tie the chain to the sprockets and also I can set the tensioner.

Just so I understand this correctly, the tensioner comes retracted and then if you (after installing it) push the end in a little it will pop out so it can tension the chain. Sort of like the HHR fuel door, push in a little and it pops out? I ask this because people talk about "hitting" the tensioner to set it. With the valve cover off it seems I can easily get to the area where the tensioner pushes on the chain (based on the pictures at the Cobalt SS site).

Right now, the car runs and accelerates fine, but is rough as it accelerates and the idle is a little rough. Could this be due to the loose chain, or does this mean it might have jumped a tooth already? How could I check?

Thanks
Steve

Lucky

You are correct by pushing in on the tensioner releases it to pretension. The new one should come locked and ready to go but check it first it could have been dropped in shipping.

The reason they state to use a soft tool to sharply strike the chain to release the tensioner is because when the tensioner is installed you can no longer get to the end of the tensioner. It's hidden behind the chain guide.

Striking the chain moves the chain guide which will push the tensioner in. releasing it like the fuel door you mentioned.

From my experience of doing the one on mine you will not really be able to see if the tensioner released once you strike the chain.


I removed the tensioner three times thinking it did not release only to find out that it had Every time I just could not tell when it was installed.

My advice is to strike the chain two of three times then just trust that it released.

Your rough acceleration should not be from the timing chain. If it had jumped a tooth the check engine light should be on with a cam/crank correlation code