The 2.2 in my 2008 HHR was making a rattle on started when cold, but was quiet during starting if the engine was off only a few minutes. I figured the tensioner was loosing oil over time and took a second or two to build up pressure to put correct tension on the chain.
I bought a Cloyes replacement, but there are different brands available.
First step is to remove the valve cover, all the bolts are 10 mm and the coils have to come out. The harness has to be cut loose, new zip ties are available but have to be slightly modified to work. I used a grinder to grind down the pine tree and screwed in the tie before installing the valve cover, with the aid of a little grease.
NOTE- this is a good time to inspect all 16 cam lobes and rollers for abnormal wear.
Inspect the chain guides, there is one below each sprocket. Both should be complete, if either is broken you have more of a repair to do- replacing the chain and guides- which isn't too difficult. If all is OK, then you can proceed to remove the old tensioner, which requires a 32 mm socket, and make sure the entire tensioner comes out with all the parts. The chain should stay in place, it doesn't have to be rotated to TDC or any particular position beforehand. DON'T rotate the engine backwards, this could throw slack into the chain and jump timing at the crank sprocket. Just don't rotate the engine at all.
Screw in the new tensioner and torque to 55 LBS. NOTE- I soaked the tensioner in oil with the hole at the top so it could fill with oil first, essentially priming the device and getting the air out. The slot on the tensioner will line up with the chain guide automatically.
When the tensioner is installed, it has to be activated by pressing on the chain at the point where the tensioner is located. Use a long screwdriver or extension and push in about 1/8" or so and you feel/hear it release. In my case, the tensioner activated when I screwed it in the last few millimeters, so I didn't have to do it manually.
That's it, this is not a complicated proceedure. Clean the valve cover and install a new gasket, and replace the 14 donut seals, too. You only need a vise and a screwdriver to replace the seals, pry them off. Screw in the zip ties before installing the cover, it's a lot easier that way.
Between the new motor mount and tensioner you can hardly hear the engine run and there's virually no vibration. All the hoses and thermostat get replaced next, more routine maintenance on a 17 year old cooling system.






Clean up the valve cover, install a new gasket and the 4 zip ties for the wiring harness.


This is the only zip tie I could find that will work. Grind down the pine tree at the end until it will screw into the threaded holes easily, using lithium grease.


Inspect the chain guides, they are visible below each sprocket towards the outside of the engine. They must be complete.


The black and the white guides are what you are looking for, the white one will appear yellow like the balance chain guides.


The tensioner is on the back of the engine. Loosen with a 32 mm socket.


The defective OEM tensioner is on the left, the new is on the right. DO NOT activate before installing! It is normal for the shaft to slide in and out a few millimeters. The oil fill hole is near the washer.


Make sure that this part comes out with the old tensioner, use a magent if necessary.

 

Your OEM tensioner is the one for the 2.2 non VVT units, the new one you installed is the OEM style for the 2.0 and 2.4 engines with the VVT system.
Thanks for the refresher course on this subject.

 

Nice writeup. I expect many comments to ensue.

I was most interested in what you found wrong in your tear down. I surmise after reading your write up that the only problem was the tensioner.

I too had a 2008 that was make making noises like you described. I got away with just changing that tensioner and nothing else. I knew it was risky,

I have a 2010 that had a broken front guide. It got the ZZP upgraded guide. Much stronger.

Many many of these Ecotecs get noisy at all times, due to a broken front guide. I suspect these front guides get shattered mostly due to thrashing caused by a failed tensioner.

 

More like failed fasteners falling out of their place.

 

Yeah there's that. Except for the ones where the front guide is completely gone and both bolts are firmly in place, just worn down from the chain.

 

Several SPOFs (Single Point Of Failure).

 

Lat month I sold my '07 HHR after 16 years with the 2.4 so I could have room for my '08 with the 2.2. When the '07 was warmed up you could barely hear it run, the timing chain was silent, and original with 201,000 miles. I can only attribute that to oil changes with Mobil1 every 5,000 miles, the best preventative measure. This engine will get the same maintenance.

 

A light right foot doesn't hurt. The ecotech chain system hates high RPM's as much as it hates, neglected oil changes.