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Top or bottom Engine Replacement

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Old 10-11-2013, 06:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hhryoungin
Lead Foot Syndrome.. JK, Either way that sucks, I hope everything goes smoothly for you!
Not quite! Oil lite came on. took 3 quarts. No leaks, no burning, no oil in coolant. I am assuming that the last person to change my oil didn't put it all in.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:48 PM
  #12  
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Got my replacement engine in and running like a top.

It does come out through the top with a little jockeying around. Must remove alternator and A/C compressor first.

Came out a little rough because I couldn't find two of the hidden transmission bolts, but once I got the new engine on the hoist, it was about 3 hours and it was in place and bolted in.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:43 AM
  #13  
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Nice! One more notch in the tool box! I remember when my 99 Grand Prix GT 2-door developed a nice loud knock from the connecting rod bearing being eaten away. Took 3 weeks to completely rebuild it.. New pistons, rings, lifters, and all the gaskets in between. I hated it, dead middle of February, burned alot of kerosene. The end result was worth it though, I miss my 3800 Series II. Sucker would MOVE! Glad you got her running again!
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:45 PM
  #14  
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For those who may need to pull or replace their engine. It does come out the top but takes a little jockeying around. The alternator and A/C pump needs to come off before it will come out.

As I thought about it, I would have had much more clearance if I pulled the exhaust manifold. If I would have done that, there would have been plenty of room without the jockeying. It may be the same result if you pull the intake as well.
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