Which do you have or prefer and why? I have a clicker. Thinking about getting a needle type.

 

I voted clicker because I still have it.

But the majority of the time I use a digital, which is a retirement gift from the guys.

 

Got both use clicker most of the time. Needle type is 50 year old but I suspect is just as good for most things.

 

Prefer the torque beam, have a clicker and snapped a wheel stud since it was way out of calibration, so I just don't trust them anymore. For 46 yrs I never snapped a bolt with the torque beam. Two yrs with the clicker and bam.

 

Mine has a clicker and needle. I like the clicker function as the needle is sometimes hard to read as you are cranking. I've not used it for real necessary work ie engine overhaul, but have used it to torque down lug nuts. One you get "used" to the force needed for that, I'll use the old wratchet and get pretty close.

 

I prefer clicker, have both but I did what I absolutly shouldn't do with the clicker because it has a nice long handle... used it to back off a really hard nut. I should have just gone and got my cheater bar with a standard 1/2" socket because no more clicker

The needle works in a pinch but if set correctly and calibrated properly the clicker is worth every penny of the 4x cost of a needle.

 

Let's get real about this torque issue, folks. Too much torque stretches bolts. That's bad. Metal fatigue causes failures. Therefore: enough is enough - and more than enough is too much. You can't argue with that.
In engineering and manufacturing terms - making a torque wrench is rather simple -it's not rocket science. By nature, the "clicker" torque wrench takes the guesswork out of the torque setting - inasmuch as it "breaks" when the torque setting is reached. The indicator bar type is subject to misinterpretation. But the span of the torque wrench itself would make it unlikely for the user to over-torque the hardware to any appreciable extent.

If accuracy is your goal, either style of torque wrench should be inspected and certified by an independent laboratory on an annual basis.

But far, far more important is the torquing sequence to be followed, and the torque settings to be applied on each pass. If you are torquing cylinder head bolts, you had darn well better do exactly as prescribed in the installation instructions - or else you will end up with blown head gaskets or burned valves. Wheel stud bolts are another story - your 95 pound sister-in-law can change a flat tire by herself without regard to technical details - although she would be smart to get a qualified person to do it.

Buy a high-quality "clicker" and go with the odds.

 

I have the snap on techwrench, digital.

 

I have used both types the clicker is the one I like as long as it it backed off to zero when done and back in the case. ready for next time. It's getting to hard to see the dials with these fifty yr old eyes or should I say 29 and holding my glasses ready to use.................................

 

I've had both, but feel that I can trust my needle type....long-term. I use the following trick for high torques or blind angles. Wrap some tape around the slot at the torque you want. When the needle pushes against the tape, you're done!