Transmission - Lost Top Gear
09-13-2018, 12:33 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-16-2015
Location: Flagler County, FL
Posts: 43
X2 on a solenoid . If you can change a wheel hub, axle, and strut, you can change the solenoids yourself. Clearly ,they are not a competent shop as to get the ACTUAL code from the TCM you need a dealer level scan tool. When these carsd have transmission issues its 9/10 one of the two shift solenoids. The part itself is cheap but labor is not as essentially you have to pull everything in the drivers side wheel well out of the way to take the transmission cover off. Its a pain, but not as bad as you think. The solenoid just have an electrical connection and pop right out. The fluid is rarely an issue as it is just hydraulic fluid, which doesn't really "break down." I would rescue the car and call around and maybe find someone who is experienced in this or if you have some time do it yourself. Dont get ripped off! People see our cars as an older throw away car so instead of proper diagnosis they want to squeeze as much money out of you as possible
09-13-2018, 04:03 PM
#12
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Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
I have tried to find a Youtube on how to install a shift solenoid on this trans and can't find one, except for a V6 Pontiac G6.
From what I have found with bits and pieces, you can do this in the car.
You have to R& I the left side drive axle, support the engine and remove the outer case of the trans that faces you after removing the axle.
The two shift solenoids are at the top of case opening. Unplug each one and install a new one.
Reassemble.
To check resistance on the part you must open the unit up unless you can find the harness outside the unit that goes to them.
I haven't check but I would think there are different gear ratios for this trans in different applications/cars.
From what I have found with bits and pieces, you can do this in the car.
You have to R& I the left side drive axle, support the engine and remove the outer case of the trans that faces you after removing the axle.
The two shift solenoids are at the top of case opening. Unplug each one and install a new one.
Reassemble.
To check resistance on the part you must open the unit up unless you can find the harness outside the unit that goes to them.
I haven't check but I would think there are different gear ratios for this trans in different applications/cars.
09-13-2018, 04:13 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-16-2015
Location: Flagler County, FL
Posts: 43
Thanks.
Picked up the car and had to drive forever at under 45. I didn’t get half a mile before it threw codes. My code reader never worked out n the HHR, so I stopped by AutoZonenn the way home. It threw the 2-3 solenoid code and the p0700.
Local dealer has a solenoid. Hoping to get it in the air this evening and check all the harnesses. I believe I have wire color codes, so I should be able to check resistance.
Going through the side sound a lot easier. Lifting a tranny back in is a pain (never owned a tranny jack, but it bet I have pulled 6-10 in my life). If my hands stay clean enough, will try to snap some pics and jot notes
Picked up the car and had to drive forever at under 45. I didn’t get half a mile before it threw codes. My code reader never worked out n the HHR, so I stopped by AutoZonenn the way home. It threw the 2-3 solenoid code and the p0700.
Local dealer has a solenoid. Hoping to get it in the air this evening and check all the harnesses. I believe I have wire color codes, so I should be able to check resistance.
Going through the side sound a lot easier. Lifting a tranny back in is a pain (never owned a tranny jack, but it bet I have pulled 6-10 in my life). If my hands stay clean enough, will try to snap some pics and jot notes
09-14-2018, 09:23 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-16-2015
Location: Flagler County, FL
Posts: 43
I have all but one bolt off the cover. The comment in the video about the subframe and steering have me bewildered at the moment for I did not notice that I would have to do anything like that (not near the car now). I had thinking I would have the clearance to remove the cover, but now I am thinking I may be wrong.
Only one solenoid available at the dealership. Might not be a bad idea to go get the other matching one from a more distant dealership.
I forgot to mention that the code for the solenoid was HIGH voltage, not low voltage. Once I have the cover off, i will test for resistance and apply voltage to see if it clicks/moves. That bad better occur tonight, for a salvage yard is open only until noon (about 1.5 hours away) with a used tranny (with 125k).
Only one solenoid available at the dealership. Might not be a bad idea to go get the other matching one from a more distant dealership.
I forgot to mention that the code for the solenoid was HIGH voltage, not low voltage. Once I have the cover off, i will test for resistance and apply voltage to see if it clicks/moves. That bad better occur tonight, for a salvage yard is open only until noon (about 1.5 hours away) with a used tranny (with 125k).
09-14-2018, 11:04 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-16-2015
Location: Flagler County, FL
Posts: 43
I was able to get both solenoids. I fought with the vehicle for several hours tonight trying to get the cover off. I lost the battle. Finally, I found a manual that covered this part. It explicitly states that the frame must come off. (SIGH). I have everything else off and the fluid drained from the side of the case. At this point, I am not sure whether it saves a whole lot by not pulling the transmission. The ball joints and drive shafts are easy enough. At this point, it seems the biggest savings is that you don't have to lift the transmission. Will let you know after this is done.
The following is posting for posterity. Source: https://workshop-manuals.com/chevrol...r_replacement/
1. With the wheels in the straight ahead position, remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Remove the underhood electrical center cover.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (See: Starting and
Charging/Battery/Battery Cable/Negative/Service and Repair/Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection).
4. Disconnect the engine control module harness connector (3, 4).
5. Disconnect the positive battery cables (1) from the under hood electrical center
6. Remove the underhood electrical center tray bracket nuts (1) and bolt (2).
7. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the tray bracket.
8. Lift the electrical center up and swing it back and out of the way
9. Disconnect the shift cable from the PNP switch.
10. Disconnect the electrical connector from the PNP switch.
11. Remove the shift cable with bracket from the transmission.
12. Remove the PNP switch. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch Replacement (See: Sensors and Switches - A/T/Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor/Service and Repair).
13. Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture (See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust/Engine/Service and Repair/Removal and
Replacement/Engine Support Fixture) for the 2.0L engine or Engine Support Fixture (See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust/Engine/Service and
Repair/Removal and Replacement/Engine Support Fixture) for the 2.2L or 2.4L engine.
14. Secure the cooling module to the upper body structure.
15. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Maintenance/Vehicle Lifting/Service and Repair).
16. Remove the front tires and wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Maintenance/Wheels and Tires/Service and Repair).
17. Remove the frame. Refer to Frame Replacement ().
18. Remove the left wheel drive shaft from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement (See: Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints/Axle Shaft
Assembly/Service and Repair).
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Remove the left transmission mount. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement - Left Side (See: Transmission Mount/Service and
Repair/Transmission Mount Replacement - Left Side).
21. Lower the engine with the engine support fixture.
22. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Maintenance/Vehicle Lifting/Service and Repair)
Remove the 11 transmission side cover bolts (3) or studs (4) (model dependant).
Caution: Pry on the corner of the case side cover near the locating dowel pins (45), to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces.
24. Remove the transmission side cover (1).
25. Remove the two side cover gaskets (5 and 6) and the side cover to driven support thrust washer (7). They may remain with the side cover. Only replace if necessary.
The following is posting for posterity. Source: https://workshop-manuals.com/chevrol...r_replacement/
1. With the wheels in the straight ahead position, remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Remove the underhood electrical center cover.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (See: Starting and
Charging/Battery/Battery Cable/Negative/Service and Repair/Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection).
4. Disconnect the engine control module harness connector (3, 4).
5. Disconnect the positive battery cables (1) from the under hood electrical center
6. Remove the underhood electrical center tray bracket nuts (1) and bolt (2).
7. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the tray bracket.
8. Lift the electrical center up and swing it back and out of the way
7
9. Disconnect the shift cable from the PNP switch.
10. Disconnect the electrical connector from the PNP switch.
11. Remove the shift cable with bracket from the transmission.
12. Remove the PNP switch. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch Replacement (See: Sensors and Switches - A/T/Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor/Service and Repair).
13. Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture (See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust/Engine/Service and Repair/Removal and
Replacement/Engine Support Fixture) for the 2.0L engine or Engine Support Fixture (See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust/Engine/Service and
Repair/Removal and Replacement/Engine Support Fixture) for the 2.2L or 2.4L engine.
14. Secure the cooling module to the upper body structure.
15. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Maintenance/Vehicle Lifting/Service and Repair).
16. Remove the front tires and wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Maintenance/Wheels and Tires/Service and Repair).
17. Remove the frame. Refer to Frame Replacement ().
18. Remove the left wheel drive shaft from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement (See: Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints/Axle Shaft
Assembly/Service and Repair).
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Remove the left transmission mount. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement - Left Side (See: Transmission Mount/Service and
Repair/Transmission Mount Replacement - Left Side).
21. Lower the engine with the engine support fixture.
22. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Maintenance/Vehicle Lifting/Service and Repair)
58
Remove the 11 transmission side cover bolts (3) or studs (4) (model dependant).
Caution: Pry on the corner of the case side cover near the locating dowel pins (45), to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces.
24. Remove the transmission side cover (1).
25. Remove the two side cover gaskets (5 and 6) and the side cover to driven support thrust washer (7). They may remain with the side cover. Only replace if necessary.
09-15-2018, 03:49 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
09-15-2018, 03:52 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
I was able to get both solenoids. I fought with the vehicle for several hours tonight trying to get the cover off. I lost the battle. Finally, I found a manual that covered this part. It explicitly states that the frame must come off. (SIGH). I have everything else off and the fluid drained from the side of the case. At this point, I am not sure whether it saves a whole lot by not pulling the transmission. The ball joints and drive shafts are easy enough. At this point, it seems the biggest savings is that you don't have to lift the transmission. Will let you know after this is done.
The following is posting for posterity. Source: https://workshop-manuals.com/chevrol...r_replacement/
1. With the wheels in the straight ahead position, remove the key from the ignition switch.
The following is posting for posterity. Source: https://workshop-manuals.com/chevrol...r_replacement/
1. With the wheels in the straight ahead position, remove the key from the ignition switch.
Last edited by donbrew; 09-15-2018 at 05:22 PM. Reason: don' need all of the pictures again in a quote