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Vent canister connector

Old Sep 24, 2022 | 08:00 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
I'm betting you should replace the vent solenoid. Wires wear out from carrying too many amps a frazzled solenoid can pull excessive amps.

I was thinking I might need a new solenoid too. I didn't know it could draw excess amps.
Old Sep 24, 2022 | 10:25 PM
  #12  
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It's a fused circuit and it's made with bare minimum for it's current load. Probably more about manufacturer greed than engineering. They probably save a penny or two with the cheap wiring.
Old Sep 29, 2022 | 07:11 PM
  #13  
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I replaced the pigtail to the vent canister and then tested it to check for current. It has current but my CEL is still on. My scanner won't read codes for some reason so I took it to Advance Auto. They found two codes, one for the canister valve and another for a large vapor leak. The guy who scanned it said it's likely the canister valve is causing both codes and recommended a smoke test. Can the canister cause both codes? I am going to replace the valve and try find a place that can do the smoke test.
Old Sep 29, 2022 | 08:01 PM
  #14  
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What are the 2 codes?
Old Sep 29, 2022 | 08:16 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
What are the 2 codes?
I didn't get the codes while there but called the store to ask. He couldn't remember them and said his scanner doesn't store them either. I will try to go back tomorrow and ask them to scan it again.
Old Sep 30, 2022 | 02:58 PM
  #16  
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I took the car back to Advance Auto today. They scanned again and this time all they found was one code, P0449. I also took it to NAPA and their scan showed the same thing, just the P0449. Since I now have current to the vent canister solenoid I suppose it's time put on a new one.
Old Sep 30, 2022 | 03:09 PM
  #17  
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Here are some test instructions

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0449
Old Sep 30, 2022 | 06:11 PM
  #18  
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Thanks; I will check those items.
Old Oct 1, 2022 | 07:56 AM
  #19  
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Let us know what you find
Old Oct 5, 2022 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Let us know what you find
I haven't had the time to go through the tests you linked to but I have driven the car. The CEL stayed on for a while after replacing the pigtail but then it shut off. I didn't do anything other than replace the pigtail connector. I thought the computer had to go through the drive cycles and that's why it took a while to turn off but that didn't seem to be the case. I took the car to get it inspected and it failed because two monitors were not ready. I was told to drive the car from a cold start about 35 miles twice to reset the monitors. I did that and it passed inspection. Not sure why the CEL took time to turn off.

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